Saturday, June 21, 2014

Allergic Reactions & Eyelash Extensions (1.0)


Allergies.
They happen, or can happen.
Hell, even Vicki Gunvalson, from the Real Housewives of OC had an allergic reaction to lash extensions. I have no idea where she went to get them done, or what products we're used, but it's true.
So if you've experienced one, you're not alone.
About 98% of my client do not have allergies to eyelash extensions or products.

However, 
the other "lucky" 2% of clients that I do have, who are allergic to certain eyelash extension products,
there is hope! 

I do have a few solutions for these clients in order to accommodate them, and as to reasons why these allergies can happen, allergies from competitors, etc. 
Here are 6 things to look out for, and that we can accommodate
so this doesn't happen!


1) Adhesives

I have one particular client who is unfortunately allergic to practically "everything." She came to our location after hearing about our products and free trial appointments. She had been getting lash extensions for the last 2-3 years at a local competitor, until shes developed a slow allergic reaction to them. She now has a horrible allergic reaction when she gets them done, to the point where her eyes begin to burn, itch, and swell. Her eyes would be swollen shut, even only after applying 5-10 lashes.
She gave up for awhile, until now.

Adhesives can be tricky. Depending on where you go, cheaper lash salons/boutiques will carry lash adhesive that is NOT FDA approved, Not made in the U.S.A., Not medical grade, or these products can contain formaldehyde, acrylic or other harsh ingredients that should not be used on or around the eyes.

There are some clients that can develop an allergic reaction over time, could be minutes, hours, days or years, even if the product is FDA approved, made in the US, and does not contain harsh ingredients.
 
Example: Another client of mine has been getting lashes done by a competitor who only uses " Nova Lash" lash extension products.They are a higher-end quality product on the lash market today. Nova lash adhesives do not contain acrylic, formaldehyde, is made in the USA, and is FDA approved.
But, my client still developed an allergic reaction. She had been getting lashes for the last 2-3 years, but the reaction was getting worse.

With these 2 clients, there multiple things that could have happend to cause allergies.

Usually cheaper and/or unlicensed lash boutiques/salons will purchase product from lash extension vendors who have cheaper quality product. Most of the time unlicensed estheticians or cosmetologists CAN NOT purchase high-end or professional quality lash extensions products in the US, simply because they are not licensed. Most high-end lash product company's in the US will not sell product to anyone who is not licensed. Forcing most lash salons/boutiques to purchase product from japan, china, korea, etc. Or even cheaper US lash extension wholesalers will import product from these places, and sell saying they are made in the US.

THE BIG BIG BIG problem with this, is that the adhesives that come from cheaper companies such as this or imported, contains formaldehyde, acrylic, or dangerous chemicals, not FDA approved.
Pretty much a recipe for allergic disasters. 

These are your EYES we are talking about. I am pretty sure no client of mine would want an allergy! or to go blind!

Now for the Adhesives that are made in the US, FDA approved, and contain no horrible ingredients, obviously have some ingredient or problem. These products could have numerous factors.
1- the product has been reformulated
2- the product is made in a factory that could contain small/miniscule amounts of formaldehyde. (Similar to the warning label on the back of a Hershey bar, cautioning that there could be traces of peanuts, since they are made in a factory that has peanuts. )
3- the product has to contain another harmful ingredient. 

Most Reputable Lash companies will contain an ingredients list with the adhesives. Realllllllly make sure to have adhesive options and have a tester or lash sample to try the adhesive and lashes out. Similar to our offer of Free Lash Mini Trials. Which makes it much easier to dwindle down on what adhesives will work, and which won't for allergy clients.


For both of my Example allergy clients,  my observation was that the adhesive from the previous place she was going to, had been using cheaper/faulty lash adhesive, with a fume. We continued with a lash trial with organic adhesive. Haven't had any problems since.
For the second example client, I assumed that Nova Lash most likely reformulated, or had small traces of other ingredients from there factory.  However, we continued a lash trial appointment, and used low fume adhesive with good ventilation. Haven't had any problems since.

Here at Urban Lash Spa,
we do offer clients a variety of adhesives.
-Quality Gold Bond - Classic - Low Fume (sensitive) &  Organic.

 (Note: You technically can mix adhesives. Like organic and low fume, etc. To reach a more sensitive adhesive but with a longer lash life. )

 All the adhesives we carry are made in the US, FDA approved, and contain no formaldehyde or acrylics.
Our gold bond and classic have a bit of a fume, which will lead me to my next thing to look out for, FUMES, which i'll explain in just a moment. The classic adhesive has no formaldehyde, but is made in a factory where there could be traces. Never experienced a problems, issues. The low fume is better for people with more sensitivity or allergy tendencies, which has been identified by a lash trial, lash client profile sheets, or previous lash appointment. And organic is for everyone. Organic has no fume, and can have bottom lashes applied better.


MOST CLIENTS who BELIEVE they have an ALLERGY, ACTUALLY DON'T.
Most of the time, it could be the lash adhesive fumes. 

Now for the
2) Adhesive Fumes 
Yes, some of these adhesives have fumes. This could have been the problem with both of my allergy example clients, instead of the ingredients. Now when we say fumes, it feels similar to the sensation after chopping an onion. A slight burn, sting, irritation, etc. 


The higher the fume content, the faster lashes dry. The lower the fume content, the slower the lashes seem to adhere. The adhesives that have a fume, high normal or low, have a longer lash life, from 2 weeks- 2months before a fill. Unfortunately, Organic only has a life of 1 1/2 -2 weeks. 
But at least the organic is an option for those with high allergy issues.


The fumes can only be felt if there is...
1- no or poor ventilation
2- the eyepads or tape are applied incorrectly, leaving eyes slightly open.
3- the clients eyes are "closed" but the eyes are not completely shut. And/or if the client flutters.

However, to bypass the fumes, make sure that the tech you see has good ventilation, like fans and air pumps, etc. This can help eliminate any discomfort, irritations or problems of fumes. I have 2 fans, 1 is on the entire time, it's further away from me, and the client, but the small amount of air flow really helps eliminate any detection of fumes and helps lashes adhere and dry quicker.

Here are some examples from our location:
fans & lash air pumps:
(excuse the ugly hand and lack of nails ;) )




3.) Tape & Eye pads
Yup, no one really thinks about this, but ever thought that the eye pads or tape could have been the problems? It's happened, and won't be the last time.



Lash tech use eye pads and tape to separate the bottom lashes from the top. This way, lashes don't adhere together or having lashes getting stuck together. Every clients eyes are different shapes and sizes, so to accommodate each eye, we cut each eye pad to mimic the eye shape. If not cut or applied right, you can have problems with adhesive fumes, but notify your tech immediately, and it can be fixed/adjusted. We than apply the eyepads, which are usually lint free, soft on one side, and has a gel bottom. Since eye pads can "slide" or move, we apply tape, which helps hold the eye pads in place, keeps bottoms lashes separated from the top. 

Usually in the new client forms (profile sheets) it will ask a series of questions, including medical. We can usually weed out if clients have allergies to Latex, collagen, etc.The eyepads we carry are lint free, hypoallergenic, and have a smooth surface on one side, and a gel bottom on the underside.

However, some eye pad brands can contain latex, collagen, skincare ingredients, have lint which can get stuck in lashes or in the eye, etc. Most all eye pads contain a gel bottom, to help keep the eye areas gently hydrated during the lash process. The skin under the eyes is delicate, making tape or any dehydrating surface to the skin around the yes irritated, enflamed, etc. Yet, some eye pad brands like to contain collagen, or other skin care ingredients for "anti-wrinkle" or "anti-aging" benefits. However, using these eye pads could be rolling the dice with ALL clients in general. Eyes and Skin are sensitive, but some clients who have sensitive skin, or allergies to these ingredients, could be the issue.

If not the eye pads, it could be tape.
There are usually 3 types of tape used for lashes. 
1-The main type of tape would be "surgical". Its a high medical grade, with a great grip, however it contains Latex and can leave a bit of residue.
2-The second would be Foam tape. Some foam tapes come in a variety of both hypoallergenic and latex versions. Ask you lash tech of which kind they are using. Foam tape is good for clients who have oily or hairy skin and leaves little to no residue.
 3-Paper tape. This is the main tape I use on all of my allergy clients. Paper tape is hypoallergenic, but also softer to the eyes and easy to remove, with little to no residue. It's incredibly gentle, and great for allergy or sensitive clients.
4.) Lashes

Are you allergic to cats, dogs, or any furry animals?
Is your tech only using 100% REAL MINK lashes?

Well, you probably should stop if you are having an allergy.
Even though dander is not present, the mink fibers can still apply an allergy, if clients have a known allergy to animals or dander.

We do offer mink and carry them. Mink is a natural hair, that mimics and is as flexible as a natural lash fiber. However, most real mink lashes are very difficult to work with, and some mink lashes can come in multiple shapes, sizes, colors, curls,etc. Try other fibers before jumping into mink, like semi-mink. Semi-mink is a synthetic fiber, however it is flexible and mimics a natural lash. However, these are perfectly uniformed, curled, etc.

(There are also other fibers and brands of lashes that are not mink, such as semi mink, silk, etc.)

 5.) Lash Products

The Lash products we carry such as lash cleansers, gel removers, etc. are gentle, and have no history of allergy problems. Again, all products made in the USA, FDA approved, and free of any harmful ingredients. 

However, back to reason #1, some competitors can use cheaper product which can contain allergy prone ingredients or harsh ingredients that can jump start an allergy. Again, feel free to ask what tech what type of products they are currently using. That way, we can bypass any allergy risk. 



6.) Medical History, Meds, & Consultation

Consultations and Client forms are a MUST. Any reputable lash location will prioritize this.

For each new client that we get, we ask each client to fill out a "new client form" or client profile sheet. Each sheet will ask a series of questions both medical, if you have had lashes before, etc. 
This is beneficial for YOU and for the TECH. This is the KEY to figuring out what is best for your lashes, your eyes, health, and for the tech. Each client will be asked a series of questions as to what medical problems, medical history, medications, vitamins, etc. Some clients can be taking a particular medication, and have a allergic reaction. But, have never had a problem when previously getting lashes.

Example. Another client of mine, has been getting lashes with me the last 2 years. Using normal eyepads, surgical tape, normal adhesive and semi mink lashes. One day, she got a flu shot from the doctor, and the next time she came in for a lash appointment, she had a horrible allergic reaction. We waited 3 weeks to try again, and the second time, we had no problems.

The human body is such a mystery, and us techs could care less of what diagnosis or meds you are taking. We truly care about your health and safety as much as our own. So please let us know of any recent medical history, if you take and meds, vitamins, or more, and do not be embarrassed.We want to make your lash experience wonderful, relaxing, and luxurious.

Each tech should be able asking and checking what you have filled out, while during a consultation.We take in consideration what style, size, shape, curl, etc. that you are looking for, while conforming to your natural eye shape and keeping the integrity of your natural lashes. All while keeping in mind any allergy or risk for allergies. 

  ______________________________________________________________________

Now, like myself and Urban Lash Spa, our techs want you to have a allergy free appointment, and to have a great experience.
Feel free to ask our tech what product they are using, are going to use, carry, etc.

Allergy Testing

There are technically 3 ways to test for allergies. 

You can apply any product on a cotton swab and apply to the clients arm in the inner elbow or behind the ear. Similar to hair color testing. The inner crease of the arm has a ton of nerve endings, usually an easy port to see if any allergy can happen. There is also behind the ear, however it is closer to the scalp/face, which can be helpful for allergies. But what I have found is that 50% of the time, these tests are not accurate.

about 10 lashes on the right eye, halfway through a trial appointment.
Thus why we have come up with Urban Lash Spa Mini Trial Appointments.
30 Minutes long appointments, and absolutely free.
Which includes a complimentary consultation, 15-20 lashes per eye, aftercare kit, and follow up. 
These appointments are a great way for clients who are new, who are interested in trying lashes but are unsure, or for clients who needs to be tested for allergies. 
Trial appointments are also a great way for clients to get an idea of what lashes look and feel like on. 


Anytime clients have an allergy, will usually be in the first 20 minutes to 24 hours. Its impossible to completely tell with the patch test, which the mini trial appointments are available. You won't know unless you try, but we start off safe with organic and can slowly work into other products with clients who have extreme allergies or sensitivity.



For those reading this who don't go to Urban Lash Spa, 
Ask your techs what product they use, do your homework before laying your eyes and health on the line. Ask about trials or trial appointments, if the tech is not asking these questions - ask them or seek someone else. Lashes an art, profession and should be held to a high standard of care.
Refer back to post #2. 

Interested in a Lash Trial Mini Appointment?
Call to book today! 
(949) 305-5593

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Private Lash Rooms vs Open Lash Rooms vs. Mobile Lash Techs



So this week, I had a client ask me if I could travel to there home.
I wasn't against it, but it ends up costing almost double the normal price. 
Which in the end, she decided to continue to come to our lash salon.

What made my client choose our location in the first place( and from what I hear from other clients)  
was that we have private lash rooms. 

 Here's two of our rooms out of five at our location :
   
Licensing & Certification should be posted up by each tech! 

Feeling comfortable in "your own bubble," is a priority to us. We want you to feel at home, but have the same comfort feeling and privacy. At our location, we want to omit a spa like atmosphere, where you can relax while getting lashed! Fall asleep, relax, stay awake and chat, or whatever your heart desires when getting pampered. Have a comfortable one-on-one experience with one of our lash techs in one of our 5 private lash rooms.


Compared to competitors, most Lash Boutiques/Salons have lash chairs or beds, out in the open in one room. Each lash station is staggered closely to others, creating a "  We don't want any clients feeling insecure, uncomfortable, or feeling "too close for comfort." 

Here are some examples of "Open Lash Rooms"
 (Open Lash Boutiques/ Open Lash Salons)


 Feeling a little crammed yet?

I don't know about you, but I personally would prefer a one-on-one experience. I wouldn't want to have my consultation with my doctor, dentist, esthetician, or masseuse out in the open, while someone next to me is talking loud, and another is breathing harsh. Ever fell asleep and started snoring? Don't be embarrassed or risk the feeling. For whatever the reason, lashes shouldn't be treated as a nail service or hair appointment. 

With that close of a proximity, I know the "germ-a-probe" in me would come out. People who are sick, coughing, etc. No thanks!  
Ain't nobody got time for a cold, fever, illness, etc.
Make sure your tech wears a mask, or feel free to wear one at your own appointment as well.

Now, I have worked in previous lash salons, similar to the open lash style. And let me tell you,
some of the conversations I've heard have left me awkward, speechless, or in shocked. 
Some of these conversations have been between other lash techs and there clients or lash tech and lash tech, client and client, or a group conversation. The top two things any salon, spa, or most businesses will tell you NOT to talk about 1) religion and 2)politics. But you get a bunch of women together in a "salon" type of setting, the chit chatter is bound to happen, but can also be a ticking time bomb. Anyone challenges anther's beliefs, statement, or just discussing something inappropriate, is a chatter box disaster waiting to happen. 

 But, for the people who want to relax, its disappointing that they don't get the option with chatter boxes. After a long day, week, or to get "pampered", some clients just want to relax and enjoy there time, get a quick power nap in, or just to balance their "chi". 
But because of these factors, most clients don't get to have a lash experience in open lash boutiques.


Ever thought that your eyes are closed for a long period of time?
Unless you clinging to them, your valuables
most of the time, clients are able to put there items, like purses, jackets, wallets, etc. in a basket or bag on the floor at the foot of the bed, or that slides under the bed. 
Now, private rooms are more secure than open lash rooms, due to the "traffic" of techs, clients, etc. vs one-on-one. Open lash rooms/boutiques can make theft easy, mistaken items or make items vulnerable. Why risk the chance?

My advice? Pick something with a "spa" style setting and private rooms.



Now my next rant, Mobile or Free Lance Lash Techs.

 Every week, I'll troll through Craigslist or google local mobile lash techs, and usually my research is disappointing. Even though clients are in the comfort of there own home, still doesn't take away the fact that you have invited a complete stranger into your home. Without stating the obvious, that theft, or scam artists could easily be the person a client has called to get there lashes done. But it very well could be a professional mobile lash tech. Usually mobile techs have a massage table or set up that they will  accommodate. Some techs who are trying to establish themselves may want to use your couch, bed, etc.in replace. But just an FYI, if lash adhesive spills or you find lashes stuck to your couch, it's not going to be fun trying to remove or clean up the mess. It also difficult to lug around lash lamps/lights, fans, product, massage table, bedding, etc. 
Sometime the hassle of bringing lashes to a client can be much more or a hassle to the techs, and or techs and clients.

Everyone is different, so who am I to judge? 
But let me show you some recent pictures of "mobile" or free lance lash techs I have found as advertisement photos via-craigslist in LA, OC, SD, and googled. 
A "full set"........more like a partial? Not all of the lashes are uniformed.
This just looks painful! Too much adhesive and applied to closely to the lid/skin.
You can see the extra adhesive because lashes are beginning to bunch.
Yikes. Lashes don't have enough drying time, and are not uniform.
You can see that lashes have been cut towards the inner tear duct. Which is a huge No No!
You can also see extra adhesive applied to the lashes. 
..............No......Just no. 
Claims to be "a full set".
See how many natural lashes are left bare?
I counted the lashes, and there is a total of 25 lashes. 
A full set is normally suppose to be 80-125 lashes.
........really?

Have you been traumatized yet?

For most mobile or free lance techs, they are usually not license estheticians or cosmetologists. 
Most reputable lash boutiques will not accept lash techs who are not licensed or certified. 
However, bargain lash boutiques or mobile techs who are not licensed, will deter to these two options of employment. (Please see Great work ain't cheap. Cheap work ain't great. post #2)

Usually mobile techs are a mystery when it comes to product, education, licensing, and experience. Most cannot obtain decent lash products, and are left with purchasing mystery or faulty product from china, south korea, etc. These tech's are usually trying to establish themselves, or this is a "hobby" or second/side job. However, not having enough experience, can lead to the above pictures.

Right when you think your safe in your own bubble, you very well may not be.

Take my advice, do the research, and pick a reputable Lash Spa,
with private rooms,
and licensed & certified techs,
with a reputable FDA approved Lash Product Line,

and get confidence
so you can stay in your comfort bubble. 




Thursday, June 12, 2014

Top 5 Mascaras that are Eyelash Extensions Friendly

(Updated March 1st, 2021)





I get asked by clients ALL the time about mascaras that can be used while wearing lash extensions. Eyelash extensions are already perfectly uniformed and curled, with practically no need for mascara. However some clients like the extra dramatic look, or to apply a bit on the bottom lashes (especially for our blondes.) I always tell my clients, as long as the mascaras they are using is free of any oil &/or mineral oil and they are not waterproof, they should be OK. But here are my top 5 favorite water based mascaras that are eyelash extension friendly.





Benefit: A Little Bit Bad Gal Lash Mascara

Color: Black
Formula: Water Based
Brush: Large brush/straight with thicker bristles that tapers at the tip
Tube size: Travel: .14oz Full Size: .30 oz
Cost: Travel: $10.00 Full Size: $19.00
Cruelty Free: Yes
Paraben Free: No
Availability: Benefit.com, Ulta, Sephora


Tarte: Lights Camera Lashes Mascara

Color: Black
Formula: Water Based
Brush: Medium-Small brush/straight
Tube size: Travel: .16oz Full Size: .24 oz
Cost: Travel: $10.00 Full Size: $20.00
Cruelty Free: Yes
Paraben Free: Yes
Availability: tartecosmetics.com, Sephora


Buxom: Buxom Lash Mascara

Color: Black
Formula: Water Based
Brush: Large brush/straight with thicker bristles
Tube size: Full Size: .37 oz
Cost: Full Size: $19.00
Cruelty Free: Yes
Paraben Free: Yes
Availability: Planet Beauty, Ulta, BareMinerals, Sephora


Urban Decay: Lush Lash Mascara

Color: Black
Formula: Water Based
Brush: Medium brush/straight with tapers at the middle
Tube size: Full Size: .37 oz
Cost: Full Size: $19.00
Cruelty Free: Yes
Paraben Free: No
Availability: Department stores: Macys, Ulta, Sephora


ilash Care: Eyelash Extensions Mascara

Color: Black
Formula: Water Based
Brush: Medium brush/straight with medium bristles
Cost: Full Size: $20.00
Cruelty Free: Yes
Paraben Free: Yes


When you apply mascara it should only be to the tips, but if you plan applying to the base or the bottom lashes, make sure the mascara you use is always water based. If you only apply to the bottom lashes, mascara can still transfer to the top lashes, every time you blink or close your eyes. If you apply to the base, bottom lashes, and/or both, the water based formula is gentler.
Let me explain: anytime you use mascaras with oil or mineral oil, the oil in these products can loosen the lash extension bonds. Making the lashes come off at a faster rate. Sometimes these oils can “loosen” the bonds, and once dried again, they can than stick to other lashes and bonds and start to clump.
The theme here is “water based everything” and no oil. That means no oil based mascara, be careful for eyeliner or heavy eye make-up with oil, oil based makeup remover, face wash etc.


My last bit of advice? 
Don’t purchase any of these products from grocery stores or swap meets. Usually the products sold there, including hair care, skincare, and cosmetics, are faulty, old, expired, etc. Beware of anti-diversion: read this: