Eyelash Extension Techs & Tools: Sterilization & Disinfection

 I hate that I am even talking about this.

But I hate the state government for not regulating this service even more.

If you haven't read my post," Eyelash Extension Licensing & Certification Regulations, by State
, than I would recommend reading that posting before reading this article.
But to sum it up, eyelash extension services and technicians are NOT regulated in every state in the USA. Even worse, some of the states that do regulate the service say you must be a licensed esthetician or cosmetologist, but not certified. Nor do beauty schools in those states train for the service. Meaning in some unregulated (and some regulated states) some techs may not be fully "qualified" to do lash extensions. Though I must be licensed in California, for example, I could very easily have no training in lash extensions but could offer them as a service. (as of 2021)

This is disturbing considering that this is the health, safety, sanitation, and your EYES that we are talking about. This goes for every tech and client. This also includes eyelash extension training courses. Training courses can be taught by someone who is not licensed, though each state varies. Certification is not the same as licensed, and because licensing does not exist, people have made up certification programs, and are making a bad name for lash extensions techs and the service. In Texas, only licensed estheticians, cosmetologists or techs with a specialty license can offer eyelash extensions. Texas really sets the golden standard for the rest of the country. (Thanks to Sophy at Nova Lash.) 

SO with all of that being said, 
I recently got ask by a client about "what is it difference between techs who are licensed vs those who are not? "

My answer? 
Because I worked my butt off in beauty school, became a licensed cosmetologists and learned about diseases, health, safety, sanitation, disinfection, sterilization, and more. 
That other tech that is not licensed (only certified) MIGHT have had a brief 5 minute conversation touching on health, safety, or sanitation at a lash extension training or class. So YES, there is a MASSIVE difference. 

I guarantee any tech that is not licensed will NOT sanitize or disinfect properly. Or know the difference between the two. 
 It's terrifying considering that the state hasn't gotten on board with regulating this service yet, but it's only a matter of time, especially since sanitizing and disinfection are at stake.  

I had another client tell me she had a small case of pink eye in one eye only, but it had since cleared up. Now, if she was directing it as if it we're my fault, it wouldn't be possible, because BOTH eyes would have it, if my hands, my tools, supplies, or sanitary area was infected. But it wasn't. Most women that get lash extensions and pull, touch, poke, etc. at them, the more they do it, the more they do this, the easier it is for them to get an eye infection of some sort. Especially after not washing hands, or playing with there lashes while not paying attention.

She had no lingering signs, so we proceeded with the service.
However, if she did have signs, I would have cancelled the service and rescheduled her.

I am not sure only certified and unlicensed techs would do the same or know to identify the issue.

 Regardless, after every service I disinfect all of my tools, tweezers, (back in the day: jade/crystals), and scissors for at least 10-15 minutes. Once I pull them out, rinse and dry all of my tools, I put them in a dry air sterilizer. I've actually resorted to sterilizing my tools with a pan of boiling water on a stove once. Took a thousand times longer, but sometimes you have to do, what you have to do.
  From Duke University & Medical Center, there article found here:
http://vetmed.duhs.duke.edu/GuidelinesforSterilization.html
explains the differences between the two.

Sterilization kills all viable microorganisms.

Disinfection only reduces the number of viable microorganisms.

Even though this is one of the cheapest, its a start.

Sterilization: 
In a dry air sterilizer, it can reach up to 480-500 degrees. Tweezers and tools go in for 20-30 seconds, maybe once or twice, before being pulled out.
There are also dry air sterilizer compressors that are similar. 
 The worst case scenario, if get a pan of water on a stove on hot. Place the tools in, and let the water boil with the tools for 12-15-20 minutes depending on them temp. Than place on a towel to cool.

The bare minimum.

Disinfection:
Disinfection solutions come usually in a blue color. These solutions can come in a rust free or non formulations, and are a hospital grade disinfectant, that is also useful for nail technicians, cosmetologists, estheticians, etc. You place your tools (cleaned of debris or smudge) in the disinfectant and let it sit completely submerged for at least 10 minutes after 10 minutes, remove all tools, rinse, and dry sufficiently. Be careful for the normal disinfectant solutions, they can rust your tweezers, and even the non rusting solutions. The longer you leave the tools in, the longer the tools may rust. If your tools are poor quality, they may rust faster.

All clean tools should than be placed in a sealed container.

My only problem, is that both of these processes should be done. First disinfection, followed by sterilization.

Most licensed techs know to do both, or at minimum that state board requires at least one. 
However techs that are not licensed (only certified) may not be doing either of these. And if they are doing disinfection, are they doing it correctly? And since state board does not regulate lash extension services in some states, it's a free-for-all. :(

I question all lash boutiques not ran by licensed estheticians or cosmetologists or that have unlicensed techs,  because a local competitor to us (and will be UN-named), disinfects there mascara wands and does not sterilize there tweezers.
Mascara wands are DISPOSABLE. They should never be re-used! The porous fibers in the "brush" can be a breeding ground for bacteria. Even through disinfection, since sterilization wouldn't be possible,  it wouldn't work, and according to California State Board Rules and Regulations is against the law.

So before going to just anyone, I'd suggest that clients and consumers do there homework.

And for perspective or current lash technicians, do your homework, and offer your clients the up-most quality, cleanliness,and safety. 

 Or better yet, follow Texas State Law on Lash Extension Technician License Laws

http://www.tdlr.texas.gov/cosmet/cosmetlaw.htm

Have more questions? Leave us a comment or email us me at suitelash@gmail.com

or leave a comment :). 

xo Holly

TIP: Eyelash Extensions VS. Hairdryer (Blowdryer)

Synthetic + Heat

= 

Never a good situation.

 

Sounds like a basic equation that most people either had experience with this or have heard horror stories. Like leaving plastic wrap on food in the microwave that wasn't microwave safe, only to discover your food is no longer edible and now a messy microwave. Or a girl that got synthetic hair extensions and tried to curl them, only for them to melt and become a mess. 

We'll this is a small note about synthetic or "semi-mink" eyelash extensions vs. heat. So, 

 Here's a tip of the day for all of our clients, techs, and readers!

A client came in this week wondering why her lashes we're losing there curl (which we're C curls) and bending/curling the opposite direction at the tips. C curl lashes hold there height and curl, but these lashes looked like a mixture between B curls and J curls. B curls are the whispy "natural curl" and J curls are natural curl with no hardly and curl and supplies no height. There is no way B's or J's snuck into a C curl tray, so we we're a bit puzzled. 

the differences between J, B, and C curl

 The lashes she got we're "semi-mink"(synthetic), which should always hold there shape and curl. Some lashes can "kink" at the tips if too much pressure is applied while grabbing each lash with tweezers, or by fast motions. But the "kink" was going in the opposite direction, which made no sense.

What could have possibly caused her lashes to do this?
A blow dryer (hairdryer)! 
 
 Right as I was about to ask google for help, I realized she had bangs pinned back. I asked her if she had bangs, and she replied "yes". 
Than I asked her if she uses a blow dryer (hair dryer) on her bangs with heat, she also replied with a,"yes." I than asked her, do you round brush or brush your bangs and at the same time have the face of the blow dryer pointing down? She said yes again. 

I realized right then, that each time shes dried her bangs and her hair that framed her face, the heat of the dryer got to the lashes, since the contact was so close. Each time she used the dryer, the lashes would warp, making them lose there curl or losing there curl a little each time she had heat around, making them appear as B and J curls. 

So the lesson today is synthetic (semi-mink) and heat 

DON'T mix. 

So, for clients who use a blow dryer/hair dryer, especially those who have hair/fringe that frames the face or bangs, make sure your blow dryer is used going away from the face and no where near the eyelashes. OR make sure your dryer is on the cold or low settings.  

If you are a client that will not give up a heated dryer, either use the dryer away from the lashes/face or instead of semi-mink lashes, ask us about our mink lashes! 
Since mink lashes are a real hair follicle from minks, they are cured to hold there color and curl, and have no effect from heat. Ask us more at urbanlashspa@gmail.com


Courtesy of our lash tech Andreya
AndreyaatUrbanLashSpa: instagram

5 Eyelash Extension Tools Techs and Clients should stay away from

 For most clients, they are left in the dark of how lash techs perform and apply lash extensions. Mostly because they're eyes are shut. Most techs don't even know how techs set up, let alone, what tools they use. However, if you are a client, don't be shy! Ask your lash tech about the process and to walk you step by step. Its always good to ask questions! Knowledge is power. 

As for techs, I've done my research, and seen some crazy tools and concepts that lash techs have created. Some are great! Other....not so much. Lash techs want to find the easiest, most clean/sanitary, and the absolute fastest way to do lash extensions. SO when some of these "inventions" are presented, they seem like the most ingenious idea! However, looks are deceiving. Usually if it sounds or looks to good to be true, it probably is. In theory it may work, but in reality it can be disastrous.

So I've made a list of 5 lash tools lash techs should stay away from. 

Glue & Lash Rings

The first time I saw both lash and glue rings, my first thought was, "This is amazing." But than when I began to think about it, and mimic what it would be like to work with rings, I realized it would be much more difficult. First of all, look at the height of the ring for the lashes! Not to mention the curve is a little much. You'd have to tilt your hand to get the pesky corners, but if you have a glue ring on, such as this model, you could potentially tilt the adhesive to drip on clients. I work with my hands slightly tilted (which I believe most lash techs do.) Or you could keep that hand completely flat the entire time, and your other hand would have to reach around for a lash each time, which could be annoying. That can't be comfortable either way. My last issue with lash rings is that you can only fit 3 sizes (sometimes 4) lashes on each ring. What if you needed more than 3 sizes, or you we're using a mixture of different curls as well? You'd need an awful lot of rings....and fingers. Even though these are disposable, there are a few brands that make them as a permanent tool. Instead of being wasteful, just stick with a tial, tray, or container. On paper this idea seemed amazing, but in reality it failed. Which brings me to....

Adhesive (Glue) Rings
One false move of the hands, an accident and natural reaction such as dropping your tweezers and you make a fast and sudden movement to grab them, but glue drips out and onto a client, especially working so close to the face (especially eyes!), I am sure glue will end up on the clients face, hair, clothes, or all of the above.
And with the hands, depending on how someone is using there tweezers (I work easier with my hands somewhat tilted) is a recipe for disaster. Similar to lash rings, the glue rings we're also a great idea "on paper." (Hypothetically speaking.)  
Working so close to the face and eyes, and your hands constantly in that area, can not only be a hazard for adhesive if it spills, drops, etc. but can also be fume-tastic for your client. The fumes can have a "strong" type of fume that is odorless. If eyes are opened before the adhesive dries, it can feel similar to a burning sensation when you chop an onion. Between both client and tech, and even WITH good circulation of air, the adhesive should be away from the clients face, off the the face (headband), away from the client pillow, etc. Or else your client and tech will experience feeling "cleared out." My biggest pet peeve about the glue rings is the adhesive consistency. Lash Extension adhesives needs to remain cool, in order to remain fresh as possible. Because of this, most techs put the adhesive on jade or crystal stones to help keep the adhesives temperature down, so with appointment times ranging from 30 minutes to an hour or more, the adhesive will never go bad. However, techs that use the adhesive ring will have more problems. Because of the body head from your hand, this makes the adhesive settle faster, and making the adhesive harder to work with, and not being able to maintain a fresh bond. Which can than jeopardize all the work a tech has done, or jeopardize the lash life or service consistency for clients. Even though these are disposable, i would have bough 4-5 crystal or jade stones, a few adhesive stickers, and called it a day. It would be much cheaper and less wasteful, and better all around!

My advice.......... Just use jade or crystal stones with adhesive stickers. It will change your life. 

Client Headbands
Even one cough or sneeze could end this lash party. The lash & adhesive client band or headbands are meant to make the workplace "tighter", so techs can work faster. Again, client bands to get their hair back, especially bangs is great for fans and circulation. HOWEVER, putting lashes AND adhesive on the headband as a work platform, so close to the face, eyes, hair clothes, etc. just seems like a horrible as the lash and glue rings. The differences would be not having to tilt your hands and having the adhesive even closer. Not to mention that the fumes are more potent since the adhesive is practically under there nose, and constant. Having lashes flick or fly, and ending up all over a clients face, hair or clothes would also be a "less than ideal" situation. The adhesive is also not staying cool, and is close to the body, which would absorb heat. jeopardizing the bonds and lash adhesive consistency. The trays are "disposable" and I am sure are not cheap. And no there's no way to clean or sterilize them properly. And as a reminder, you'd better invest in a ton of client headbands and a ton of laundry detergent to wash those suckers. I find that this just ends up costing more in the end. 

Nano-Misters

Back in 2014, essentially these are used to help cure freshly applied lash extensions. Weird, I know. I 've always been told "do not apply water or steam to lashes in the first 24 hours of application." And here we are doing somewhat exactly that. Bizarre, I know. .The ingredient cyanoacrylate (in most higher end adhesives) cure faster with a decent amount of water/humidity. Even though clients eyes may be closed, I am sure techs announce that they will use this on their client, or maybe not because it's gentle anyway. Some clients can feel it and others don't. 
Misters are one of the newest tools in lash extensions, and most lash salons and boutiques have jumped on the lash mister bandwagon. However, after digging up a little more information scientifically and from products, lash techs, etc. I found that SOME misters are anything but. Some offer more of a spritz effect where the better misters are fine molecules to act as humidity. Make sure your tech has a good nano mister or neubulizer. 

Heater (or Non-Heated) Eyelash Extension Curlers 
I'll start with the basic lash curler every girl has most likely owned or at least used once in there life. I tell all clients NO. You have to stay away from these. Lash curlers are meant to help curl the lashes, usually applied after mascara, that helps gift lift and volume to the natural lashes. Lash curlers  should NEVER be used on eyelash extensions. Why? Because pressing on lash extensions bonded to natural lashes can not only break or tarnish bonds, but also can potentially pull or tug on natural lashes and extensions, which could cause gaps or pre mature lash shedding. Lash curlers are not necessary, since lash extensions are already sized and curled (both semi mink and mink - even silk or mixtures too.) Depending on where techs are getting there product, lash vendors can make there lashes cheaply, that are mis-sized, mis-curled, or dont hold there color or curl. Check with your vendors and make sure to check in with clients on how they like there lashes and if they have any problems. If clients are using lash curlers, maybe it's time to upgrade the lash extension curl, so they can have the height/curl. Lash extensions are already set, so attempting to curl set lashes, would be like trying to make water wetter. Ridiculous. Exactly.

Heater lash curlers are similar to normal lash curlers, however have different benefits and appears different.They are similar in the fact that they will curl the lashes and add some height. But since the shape and technique is different, I'll explain why this is just disastrous.

First of all, it's meant to curl your natural lashes. Some tech's use this BEFORE applying lash extensions, which is HORRIBLE. When a clients natural lashes are curled, it's only temporary, so after application of extensions, and with time or a day passes, or after a client washes there face or takes a shower, the lashes will look 1000X different. The extensions will lay differently and may not be the look that you set out to have in the beginning. Even during application of curled or curly lashes, the extensions may not have great bonds compared to the natural lashes before being curled. Unfortunately, clients can not curl there lashes after lash extension application, or while extensions are on. This is especially meant for clients with semi-mink (synthetic)! Some techs use this for clients who's lashes are straight or pointed down, where the lashes touch the tape. Because of the curler, it will help lift the lashes off the tape, so there's no chances of sticking. Another benefit that should be labeled as a precaution, is that the lash curler will help separate and smooth mascaraed lashes. Any woman who has ever worn make up to the gym, or after a night out dancing, knows that mascara plus heat will create a melted off mascaraed mess. Not to mention, if you don't let this curler cool down, you could be burning holes through your make up bag.


Client Chairs (Laz-E Boy Style):
When I first learned how to do lash extensions, the educators used the lash extension chairs, similar to LAZ-E Boy Chairs. Seemed like a genius idea because clients didn't have to lay down, and it seemed easy. But the more I used the chair, the more I realized there was room for error. Clients who have a bad neck or back may hate these chairs. Even if the chair reclines, most of the time, isn't enough in order to work comfortably and efficiently. Thus why clients have to extend there heads back. Clients with constant neck or back problems may stop getting lashes because of this, or may continue to get lashes but ruin there main structure of there body. Don't let them do it, and offer a table (massage table) instead. Another client that may hate the chairs are pregnant clients. Pregnancy clients can also be tricky for tables and chairs. However, with a client on a massage table, I've realized techs should offer a "cheese mat" to help elevate the client slightly, or extra pillows, or even the pregnancy pillow is especially good for this. Clients that are pregnant sitting in a chair for a long period of time at 90 degrees may start to feel cramped or have issues.

My biggest problem with this bottom photo is the fact that the lash places aren't private, so you can be sitting next to a stranger. If you have ever had your eyes closed while getting lashes, have you ever thought...." Hmmmm, I wonder where my purse, car keys, phone, etc is." or "I wonder who just walked in." while trying to relax? Women cling to there belongings and are not able to relax. Imagine if they called a friend to say they couldn't make it to lunch, but instead went to her lash appointment. Let's just say her friend walks in to get lashes and see's her. She wouldn't know until she opened her eyes.

Just No.

I Highly Do NOT recommend any of these products or tools for any technician or for clients to have used on them. 

For any questions, or if you have any questions regarding any other tools, leave us a comment.

Clear vs. Black Adhesives for Eyelash Extensions

Have you ever experienced an allergy to eyelash extension adhesive?
If so, is your body allergic to formaldehyde? If you answered no,
Do you have an allergy to cyanoacrylates? If no again,
Are you allergic to (in other competitor adhesive formulations, rubber, acrylics, etc.) ?
if you answered no again,
Are you allergic to Carbon Black?

What is Carbon Black?

Carbon Black is on of the few ingredients in a majority of eyelash extension adhesives on the market today. This ingredient is essentially a dye, which makes the adhesive "Black."It's needed in the adhesive to help blend the bonds of natural lashes and lash extensions. The bond (adhesive) that combines the two is black, helping to camouflage natural lashes and extensions. It acts as a black coating, to help blend the two together at the same time. Because of this, no eyelash tinting needs to be done, especially for blondes or lighter hair colored clients.

As amazing as the carbon black provides, unfortunately for the lucky few clients, they may have an allergy to this ingredient.
Some clients may have an allergy to eye shadows, eye liners, pigments, or other cosmetics. Mainly because there is Carbon Black present, or particular dyes similar to carbon black. Even though cosmetics are touching the skin and lash extensions are not, clients who are ultra sensitive might still experience some problems.
Even though lash extensions are applied at least 1mm away from the skin, some clients that even by blink or have there eyes closed (while sleeping) will obviously be touching the skin, which can be enough to have sensitivities or allergies both big or small.

What some lash extension technicians, and some clients, is that Carbon Black may be the culprit of lash extension problems, allergies, or sensitivities. Allergic reactions are rare occurrences and are usually the result of incorrect eyelash extension application, ingredients in products/ poor products used (including synthetic, mink, latex, fragrance, formaldehyde, etc.), seasonal allergen or improper at-home care. Clients are advised to remove contact lenses prior to an eyelash extension application.

But FEAR NOT! We have a back up that will be crystal clear.
No, litterally crystal clear. 

Client with Pigmentation disorder: white lashes applied with clear adhesive.

 Clear Eyelash Extension Adhesives do not contain the Carbon Black ingredients!
Which has it's pro's and con's. The bond will be clear, not black.
With Blonde or lighter hair colored clients, this may be a tiny bit more noticeable, however usually the extension is black  both semi mink and mink, which helps camouflage the natural lash color.
A fix to this could be lash tinting or lash tinting with henna (or natural dyes - make sure it contains no carbon black or other chemicals.) This can help conceal natural lash colors with lash extension color since the bond (adhesive) will be clear.
However, no black bonds is a small price to pay, when you can still have extensions.
Just because lash extension adhesive is clear, it still has the same lash life as adhesives with carbon black.

This is also great for colored lashes, to give that extra pop of color, that is full through the entire lash. (Usually applied with black adhesive can make the colored lashes appear as "two-tone." That way you only get 1/2 the lash of color, since the other 1/2 is black. With clear adhesive, you get all the color! As the picture above, even clients with pigmentation loss and medical issues will have benefits with clear adhesive. My client, who had pigmentation loss on parts of her skin, the corner of her eyebrow, and a majority of her right eye, wanted to not camouflage but accentuate her natural beauty. She is a gorgeous woman, even with one eye with white lashes and one with black!

This opened tons of new questions and has opened new doors for sensitive, allergy, and color clients!
 This may be the answer for clients to avoid a particular irritant or allergy.

Say Goodbye to Carbon Black: Irritation and Allergies!
Ask us about our Crystal Clear Adhesive at (949) 305-5593

Benefits of Silk & Satin Linens for Eyelash Extensions

First of all, Happy December, 

or in other words it's the Holiday Season! 

We're preparing for a busy month at the shop, and stocking up on lashes, candles, products, and other goodies. One of our newest features, a new brand that we are excited to carry,

we introduce you to,
Morning Glamour Satin Pillow Cases.

How are these beneficial to eyelash extensions, you ask?
Not only are they beneficial for lash extensions, but for your hair, and skin! 
Morning Glamour Pillow Cases Benefits are as follows:

• Eyelash Extensions: When sleeping on cotton pillow cases, lash extensions can get caught, snagged, pulled, and twisted, which can cause lash damage, pre-lash shedding, gaps (bald spots) or twisted lashes. With Satin or Silk pillow cases being tightly woven fabric, your lashes will have no friction and never get stuck, snagged, or twisted. Because of this, your also extending the lash life of your lashes and bonds.
• Hair: Beauty sleep takes on new meaning with Morning Glamour's wrinkle-preventing, gentle-on-hair satin pillowcases
•  Skin & Hair: Studies have shown that sleeping on a satin pillowcase can reduce wrinkles and help prevent hair loss and breakage. This is especially important because those "sleep wrinkles" that develop overnight might become permanent as we age. Yikes!
•  Hair:  Friction between your hair and a cotton pillowcase can cause hair damage and breakage (see: bed head). When you eliminate friction by sleeping on a smooth satin pillowcase, you eliminate that morning frizz and keep your locks healthy. No more static-hair! (Yay!)

 From there Website: https://www.morningglamour.com/

"Morning Glamour LLC is owned and operated by Kristen Lantz and Hector Loza.

Morning Glamour was born in 2011, when Kristen and her sister had an epiphany after switching to satin pillowcases. They realized that satin offers a surprising amount of beauty benefits, from tame morning hair to fewer wrinkles. The difference was so palpable, they realized that they were getting real "beauty sleep." It was then that they determined that satin pillowcases should be sold in beauty aisles everywhere. Thus came Morning Glamour, the company that redefines how you rest."

They have also been featured by the American Cancer Society.

"Satin pillowcases are great for cancer survivors who desire relief from chemotherapy symptoms such as hair loss, dry skin conditions and discomfort. Although satin pillowcases won't completely stop hair tug and hair loss, The American Cancer Society recommends sleeping on satin pillowcases to help with chemotherapy side effects. You can learn more about it at: http://www.cancer.org/"

They offer multiple colors and patterns: Such as Black, Ivory, Silver, Gray, Blue/Turquoise, Pink, Zebra, Cheetah, Floral, and other colors & patterns during seasonal times of the year.
They also offer a single pack, double pack, single travel pack, and king size!
A perfect gift less that $26.00.

We carry exclusive colors, other colors and patterns available upon special order requests.
 At (949) 305-5593 or email us at UrbanLashSpa@gmail.com
Or to buy online visit https://www.morningglamour.com/