Eyelash Extension Weights - What Client's should know

Let me start off by saying, that more than 95% of my clients who are new to my location, whether they are new clients to lashes or new clients from competitors, none of them have been educated about lashes, lengths, and sizes (weights)  and more.

When it come's to lashes, and my personal and professional opinion, I normally tell clients to start off easy with a set of semi-mink (synthetic.) Depending on the brand, the one we use is a matte black, soft (surprisingly) and flexible! Thus it can mimic a natural lash or a mink lash. Thus clients can be acclimated to lashes with a "standard" set.

With this being said, I am probably not a "normal" lash tech, that normally asks there clients a few basic questions like, "Do you have an sensitivities or allergies?", "Do you want your lashes more natural or dramatic?", and "Do you want your lashes full?". And within a 5 minute consult, technicians start. What I have noticed is that, techs who do this are REALLLLLYYY rolling the dice.
With clients, it can be a hit or miss. What you may think is natural, may be too "cookie cutter" or dramatic to them, or maybe it wasn't dramatic enough. With this being said, consultations should consist of walking clients through (or educating them) about lash types, lengths, weights, and patterns. That way, they can pick EVERY SINGLE DETAIL.

I am sure a few of you are thinking, "Or just bring a picture of what you want." 
Sure. But it a client want's Texas or "Kardashian" type of lashes, but don't have a good base (or enough or healthy natural lashes) than a picture may not be reality. 

With all of this being said, I believe a little education should be used for clients.

So what should clients know?

Bella's Consult Card (edited.)

This is only true for combo lashes or semi-mink (synthetic). They can be offered in multiple curls and lash lengths depending on the maker.
They can go from a weight of 0.05 to 0.30.
The average sizes are as follows:

0.05, 0.07, 0.10, 0.12, 0.15, 0.18, 0.20, 0.23, 0.25, 0.30

C and D examples

The Average weight size I see is 0.20. This is a great size, but about 75% of the time for most clients, it's too heavy, or for some who want a dramatic look that can handle more, it may not be enough.
With this being said,  the other basic sizes, are 0.15 and 0.25.
To me 0.15 is lightweight and basic, but will lash a lot longer. It may not look as "full", but it's still a great lash to have.
Than you have a 0.25. These are WAYYYYYY to heavy in my opinion. Because they are thicker, to me, they appear to be very "spider leggy."
Thus why I don't use these as much.

J and B examples

NOTE: Usually, the larger the lash size, the fuller the appearance, however, the lashes will also be heavier, which can make your lashes go "faster." This can also be jeopardizing for clients who have thin or frail natural lashes, thus too much weight for them to handle may damage there lash cycle or growth. Usually when technicians go bigger, it's because they don't have to apply as many lashes, and you get a thicker or fuller appearance faster. To me, I just believe it's Laziness from the technicians portion.

Anything below a 0.12 is considered a "volume" lashes. They are thin and light weight, thus they can be applied by 2 at a time in fans. The complete weight, coming to 0.24,
My professional Opinion? Don't use lash weights that are a total weight  exceeding over a 0.25. Example, 1:1 - 0.25, 2:1 - 0.10, 3:1 - 0.07, etc.

Ask your technicians about sizes and what you should qualify for. If you feel that your lashes are too heavy or not lasting awhile, ask to bump down a size weight. If that doesn't solve the problem ask up lash lengths or adhesives.

Coming Soon: Eyelash Extension Lengths - What Client's should know 

Have questions or comments? 

Leave us a comment or send us your questions at UrbanLashSpa@gmail.com!

 

What "Hypoallergenic" really means

Exactly like the title states, what does Hypoallergenic mean? 

Like tons of people across the world, I am one who suffers from irritants or mild allergies to certain things.
Some people are allergic to cats (dander) or other animals.
Some are allergic to peanuts or nuts.
Some are allergic to perfumes, dyes, and many other things.

Like some people, I personally am allergic to perfumes and some dyes.
I got to wondering, why am I and not someone else?
Unfortunately, our bodies do WEIRD things, and sometimes, that's just the way mother nature dished out "life" to us.
People deal with allergies, and luckily with all of the medical research and studies, scientists and medical professionals are finding how some allergies are caused and are finding remedies.

And as I sit an patiently wait to know the worlds answers of allergies,
it got me thinking....
What does hypoallergenic mean?

The term Hypoallergenic to me, would represent a product that is gentle to consumers, that any consumers will not get an allergy to allergic irritation or flare up. Making the product versatile to virtually anyone. People who may be allergic to specific ingredients in the products, known to cause allergies or sensitivities, would not be in the products. The ingredients would be FREE of ingredients, that are common allergic or sensitive ingredients to populations, including skin irritants (perfumes, dyes, detergents, etc.), common allergic ingredients (peanuts, soy, etc.), and more.

I've gone into a CVS, walgreens, and beauty supplies, and other stores that carry a wide variety of products, which some have the label "hypoallergenic."
As an example, Johnson & Johnson's Baby Shampoo is oil free and "hypoallergenic."

But what does Hypoallergenic really mean?
What is the real definition?

Well, according to the FDA, the term Hypoallergenic, doesn't really exist. 

From the FDA website, the technical definition of

"Hypoallergenic Cosmetics

There are no Federal standards or definitions that govern the use of the term "hypoallergenic." The term means whatever a particular company wants it to mean. Manufacturers of cosmetics labeled as hypoallergenic are not required to submit substantiation of their hypoallergenicity claims to FDA.
The term "hypoallergenic" may have considerable market value in promoting cosmetic products to consumers on a retail basis, but dermatologists say it has very little meaning.
October 18, 2000 The information above is current and is updated only as needed."
The Link to the FDA and more info, can be found here:
http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/Labeling/Claims/ucm2005203.htm

A bit terrifiying don't you think?

In one aspect, I am sure the FDA had no choice, but to say there is no such things, because people can be allergic to anything.
Some people are allergic to the sun and UV light.
Some people are allergic to water of all things.

I am sure it's possible to say or label anything "hypoallergenic."

But if that's the case,
then why even have a term?
To get a second term or definition from another source, I went to Google.
I almost wished I hadn't. 

According to Google, the term Hypoallergenic means:

" Hypoallergenic, meaning "below normal" or "slightly" allergenic, was a term first used in a cosmetics campaign in 1953. It is used to describe items (especially cosmetics and textiles) that cause or are claimed to cause fewer allergic reactions."

What I got from that was: "fewer allergic reactions."

I find that these definitions disturbing, and lacking any true meaning to the work "hypo allergenic."
I guess it could be worse.....It could have been non-allergenic.

But you don't see non-allergenic being used. 

Beware of products, read ingredients, and know your body. If you have an allergy, sensitivity or reaction to anything, consult your doctor. With consulting you doctor or medical, they should also be able to recommend or refer specific products or alternatives, or tell you what to avoid. Knowledge is power........which is priceless for your health, mind, and body. 
__________________________________________________________________________________

If you have any questions, comments, or requests, ask us!

Send us an e-mail at UrbanLashSpa@gmail.com

11 Terrifying Facts About Makeup

​Knowledge is power! The cosmetics and beauty industry goes hand
in hand with eyelash extensions. SO here are some facts clients should
look for when purchasing products.

 

Can people be allergic to Eyelash and Brow Tinting?

***Updated January 1st, 2016***
Please note:

"..in California, Eyelash Tinting and Brow Tinting have been outlawed services, due to no lash or brow tinting products passing FDA regulations. " Because it does not abide by FDA regulations, all states are exempted from using Lash or Brow tinting. (ammonia)


_________________________________________________________________________________

Industry Bulletin - Lash/Brow Tinting

It has come to the attention of the Board of Barbering and Cosmetology (Board) that the U. S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) maintains that there are no approved tints (including vegetable tints) or lash/brow tints that retain their approval for distribution in the United States of America. The FDA has issued an Import Alert as a means to intercept products intended for tinting lashes and brows. FDA information can be viewed at:

FDA Eye Cosmetics Fact Sheet: www.fda.gov/downloads/ForConsumers/ConsumerUpdates/ucm048948.pdf

Based on these findings and according to Title 16, Division 9, Section 989 of the California Code of Regulations, which states:

989. Prohibited Hazardous Substances/Use of Products

No establishment or school shall have on the premises cosmetic products containing hazardous substances which have been banned by the U. S.Food and Drug Administration for use in cosmetic products, including liquid methyl methacrylate monomer and methylene chloride. No product shall be used in a manner that is disapproved by the FDA.
"
NOTE: Authority cited: Section 7312, Business and Professions Code. Reference: Section 7312(e), Business and Professions Code.

SO with all of that being said, please verify your state via your states "Board of Barbering and Cosmetology." 

 ________________________________________________________________________________

Q: Can people be allergic to Eyelash and Brow tinting?

A: The answer is YES.

But allergic reactions varies from person to person and product that's used, and not to mention the technicians technique.  

About the product.

Eyelash and Brow tinting are usually a vegetable or "regular" based tints (similar to hair color but on a lot lighter scale for chemicals and ingredients.) Most tints are than mixed with equal parts (equal amount) of developer, which is pretty much ammonia. Thus activating the color to "deposit and develop" making the tint on the brows or lashes, permanent and not semi-permanent or temporary. With the proper product, usually the highest amount ammonia used is only 10%.  Anything higher would be too much for the eyes or ingredients like that close to the eyes, a little too much to handle. The ammonia can have a "fume" like effect, similar to adhesives. Some people can "feel" the fume if eyes are open when ONLY tinting the brows. 

When tinting the eyelashes, the eyes should ALWAYS be closed, and never opened during the service.

Most product lines vary in texture (liquid, cream, etc.) and how many colors and developing time it offers. It also depends what ingredients are in them. But make sure to find a appropriate line that is approved by the FDA. 

A brief description of how tinting works. I won't go into detail but,

When applying the tint to the brows, it can touch the skin. Eyes are closed during the procedure and is recommended to stay closed during the processing time, however I've seen a lot of clients ignore this factor.

When applying tint to the eyelashes, eye pads and/or tape is added or put down to protect the skin and to separate the lashes. Eyes are closed during the procedure and processing time. Product (color) NEVER touches the skin, and stays always at minimum 1 mm away from the skin. 

Both need (depending on the product line directions and developing time) at minimum 10 minutes. 

Both are than cleaned up, and done.

TIP: I highly recommend using a cream based product. Liquid tends to slip and run. Making it harder to work with and to cover all the hair. Also can be dangerous using near the eyes. 

Q: If the product never touches the skin, for eyelashes, how can an allergic reaction happen?

A: Something in the ingredients list or the ammonia (usually the culprit) is what most people find themselves allergic too. 

Since the product touches the skin when applying tint for brows, it can be a direct contact of an allergic reaction. Sometimes you can always be allergic to other things, like tape (medical, paper tape, etc) eyepads, makeup remover or products, and more. Make sure to tell your technician what or if you have any allergies to anything.

Now, like myself and Urban Lash Spa, our techs want you to have a allergy free appointment, and to have a great experience.
Feel free to ask our tech what product they are using, are going to use, carry, etc.

Allergy Testing

There are technically 2 ways to test for allergies, and an easier way to see if any allergy will occur.. 

You can apply any product on a cotton swab and apply to the clients arm in the inner elbow or behind the ear. Similar to hair color testing. The inner crease of the arm has a ton of nerve endings, usually an easy port to see if any allergy can happen. There is also behind the ear, however it is closer to the scalp/face, which can be helpful for allergies. Because of the ingredients and product, usually as early as 5-20 minutes, to 24 hours patch tests, you can be sure that  you've had an allergy or not.
This is the "legal" way of hairstylists testing for clients for any allergies to hair color.
Following this protocol will be a lot easier. Depending on each line (color line), ingredients can vary from line to line. It's safer to get a patch test, than to be sorry, in case you are using a new line/technician or if the product has been reformulated.

Anytime clients have an allergy, will usually be in the first 20 minutes to 24 hours. You won't know unless you try, but we start off safe with an organic or henna line that just deposits color, and needs no assistance with ammonia. Just make sure to do a patch test and make sure there is no kohl, lead, or other ingredients in the product.

For those reading this who don't go to Urban Lash Spa, 

Ask your techs what product they use, do your homework before laying your eyes and health on the line. Ask about trials or trial appointments, if the tech is not asking these questions - ask them or seek someone else. Lashes an art, profession and should be held to a high standard of care. 

Please keep your eyes peeled for regulations by state for lash and brow tinting.

Eyelash Extension Allergy Remedies, Tips, and Aftercare

What to do when you have an allergy to eyelash extensions or adhesives?

Allergies can happen to anyone. Whether it be medical surgical grade adhesives, superglue, or even adhesives left over from tape.

Lucy's Story, and an example of an allergy. http://www.thisislocallondon.co.uk/news/11401848.Bexleyheath_teen_s_holiday_ruined_by_false_eyelash_horror/

If you have had contact with any adhesives, and allergy can occur within the first few minutes or a reaction can be almost 24 hours delayed. Here are some steps and tips to help remedy an allergy to adhesives, such as Eyelash Extension Adhesives.

1.)     Take an allergy medication.

Medications such as Benadryl or Claritin are both some examples of medications that can be purchased over the counter. These medications can help relieve itchiness, redness, and the allergy that is affecting the body. For dosage, follow the directions of the medication as prescribed or directed.  (Depending on each person, please ask your doctor before taking, if you are a candidate for such medications or other alternatives.) This will help relieve the patient or client much faster than just topical remedies. 

TIP: Taking an allergy pill before an appointment, for example: before a free trial appointment, will also help reduce the severity or if any allergy that we’re to occur, before, during, or after the appointment.  

2.)     Make sure to remove all adhesive and lashes.

This can be tricky, because every client who has a reaction, there first instinct is to get them off. But getting everything off can also be difficult without the help of a professional. Whatever you do, do not yank, pull, or scrape off the lashes. Even if you get the lashes off, you may have damaged or may have pulled out natural lashes out. However, residue from the adhesive may still be on the lashes, that clients may not be able to see.

So here are a few things you can do.

Either,

a.       Set up an appointment for the following morning/day for removal (for safe measure.)  

http://blog.xtremelashes.com/index.php/2011/03/11/safe-removal-eyelash-extensions/

That way, when you come in, they can get all of the adhesive and lash extensions off safely and done professionally.

b.        Lash Remover Product

   

If you live far away from your technician, or you cannot make it in for another appointment such as a.) recommended, than ask your tech if you can purchase a lash remover or purchase/take home a small amount of the lash remover. Depending on the tech, some will give you a small dollop to take home, for a diy home removal, or may make you purchase some, if they have extra on hand. Follow the directions of the remover. Usually the remover can have oils and salt, to break down the bonds faster. The salt may cause itchiness, but you’ll know it’s working. Put it on the lashes only, one eye at a time, gently. Apply with qtips or microfiber brushes and massage into the lashes. For free trials, wait for about 5-10 minutes or less, for full sets it may need 10-20 minutes (less or more.) The solution will break down the bonds and they extensions and adhesive should “slide” right off. Once both eyes are complete, make sure to wash.

c.       Oils (Diy remover)  

  

 Instead of a lash extensions/bond remover, you can go the natural way. Oils. Baby oil, coconut oil, olive oil, or any kind of oils is ideal. Our favorite is petroleum jelly, because it holds a heavy “whipped texture” without moving or sliding around such as oils do. Because the adhesive is predominantly oil based, when oils and oils mix, they break down. Meaning the bonds will begin to break down. Apply with qtips or microfiber brushes and massage into the lashes. For free trials, wait for about 5-10 minutes or less, for full sets it may need 10-20 minutes (less or more.) The solution will break down the bonds and they extensions and adhesive should “slide” right off. Once both eyes are complete, make sure to wash.

3.)     Rinse

Make sure no matter what removal that you do, that you rinse your eyes for 2-5 minutes with first warm water, and then cold water. The warm water will make sure to get all product out of the eyes or around the eyes, such as solutions or oils from the removal. After a few minutes, switching to cold water will than remove any traces of product while soothing the eyes.

4.)     Cold Compresses

To follow up with your allergy, doing cold compresses on the eyes will also sooth the eyes or irritated skin. Some people can just use ice in a bag, or a compress bag. Other can use the gel compress bags after frozen. Or for extra benefit, get the eye cover gel compress. Similar to a sleeping mask, but made just for the eyes. You can use hands free, and easy to sleep without the compress sliding off. Use after frozen.

5.)     Aloe Vera

If the skin still has any redness, itchiness or feels “warm,” use a small amount of aloe vera to the skin. The aloe will help calm any redness, itchiness or burning, and the green undertone will help the redness or inflamed skin neutralize and begin to calm and heal. Aloe vera from the plant can be used. Please note, when using an aloe vera plant leaves, when broken, the gel can be sticky. Aloe vera can also be bought over the counter in a gel form or lotion form (a remedy for sunburns, found in the sun care isle.) Make sure to double check the ingredients for any allergies to any product before using.

TIP: Make sure to continue taking any allergy medications, and continue any cleansing and soothing steps with the eyes, even after removing of the extensions and adhesive, until the allergy has subsided and is cured.

TIP: Please note that anytime you have an allergy, to tell your doctor that you have an allergy to adhesives. Most medical grade adhesives are the same or follow the same ingredients. Medical grade adhesives are used for sutures or even surgeries. With this being said, have your doctors make a note for an allergy on your patient file. That way, in case of medical emergencies in the future, doctors will know to reframe from using any adhesives on patients with a known allergy to those products.

***TIP: If you have an allergy or irritation to eyelash extensions or adhesive that does not subside, or that does not show signs of improvement (especially after any steps or tips that we have given as relief to the eyes, skin or lashes), please seek medical attention.***

If you have an allergy, please contact your eyelash extension technician. Allergies can happen from adhesives, tape, eye pads, lashes, or other items.

At Urban Lash Spa, alternatives may be arranged, or may be available depending on what each client is allergic too.

For allergies to other products, visit our other blog posting titled:

"Allergic Reactions & Eyelash Extensions"

you can read it here: (link)

 http://urbanlashspa.blogspot.com/2014/06/allergic-reactions-eyelash-extensions.html

 We hope these tips help! Have any questions or comments?
leave me a comment!