Tuesday, May 18, 2021

Patch Testing (Allergy Testing) for Eyelash Extensions

In one of my earlier posts, I’ve written about eyelash extensions allergy testing or a.k.a. “Patch Testing.” I wanted to update and revisit a few things that could either be confusing or complex to both clients and techs.


The term, “Patch test” is a cosmetology term that mainly hairdressers use for testing hair color, chemical services, and/or hair products. The test itself is applying a tiny bit of the chemicals/product/etc. to either to the inner elbow or the behind the ear. And wait 24-48 hours to see if a client has an allergy. For hairdressers, behind the ear is most likely the best result. However, the inner elbow contains a lot of nerve endings, that may give us equally sufficient results as behind the ear. 


The process is slightly different for lash technicians. First and foremost, eyelash extension adhesive under any circumstances should never be applied to the skin. The adhesive for some sensitive clients, or if clients are allergic, can experience a chemical burn by the adhesive. However, to patch test for eyelash extensions is still possible. After years of trial and error and experience, I find that testing a few lashes (less than 10) per eye, is the only way. Because eye’s are a mucous membrane, I find it to be a “whole other ball game “ to test. The “Patch Testing” for eyelash extensions process involved the following.


First, prep and prime the eye as if any other eyelash extensions client. This includes, gel pads, tape, prime, clean the lashes, etc.

Next, apply only 3-10 lashes per eye. Either spaces out just 3-5 in the outer corners. 

Finish by drying and adding a bonding agent (adhesive accelerator to help cure/dry faster.) (NOTE: I don’t recommend nano-misting.) 

Wait 24 hours (up to 48 hours) to see if a client has any allergic reaction. 


Some allergies defer from one another. Not every client will be allergic to adhesive, which it could be products. 

A few things a tech could troubleshoot for client allergies is,

Gelpads,

Tape,

Primer, (ingredients)

Cleanser, (ingredients)

Lashes, (Semi-mink, silk, mink, etc?)

Adhesive, (does the adhesive contain carbon black or clear?, different formulated adhesive ingredients, not to mention where are the adhesive manufactured, etc.)

Nano-mist,

Bonder (adhesive accelerator).


After troubleshooting all of these things to pin point an allergy, if a client is allergic to the adhesive unfortunately a client is no longer a good candidate for eyelash extensions. Most if not all eyelash extension adhesives on the market contains the ingredient, “cyanoacrylate.” It can be found in both sensitive formulated and regular eyelash extension adhesives. Most reputable eyelash adhesive brands are formulated and or tested by ophthalmologists. It’s important to never use any other adhesives that are not for the eye. Until the market comes up with another product to substitute adhesive, some clients may have to settle for lash products that aren’t lash extensions. If a client experiences an allergy, it’s best to seek medical advise.


Have an allergy question? Experience? Comment below!

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