Friday, September 19, 2014

What are lash extensions made of?

I get asked this question frequently enough, that I figured it would make a good topic on the Blog. :)

What are lash extensions made of?

Well, depending on what your lash tech supplies, it could be a few things, so lets begin.

If the tech is licensed/certified, chances are your going to get good product. If not, or if you tech isn't reputable, chances are your going to get crappy product.

The product I am about to name, is pretty universal to all lash materials that are sold from all companies. SO, lets call this the "lash traffic light" - green light for good materials, yellow light for fair materials, and red light for poor materials. Red light should make you turn the other direction and run.

Green Light: Recommended Product

Mink
Mink Lashes are one of the most popular lashes requested, and the most expensive lash material available on the Market. With a feel for "Hollywood glamor", mink lashes extensions have a pros and cons. Mink lashes are the closest thing you will come to the look and feel of a natural hair follice/lash. The lashes are extremely light weight, giving a longer lash life, and lighter on the natural lashes, helping keep the natural integrity. Due to the natural origins of the mink hairs, lashes may vary in thickness, length and curl per tray/container. Because of this, mink can be annoying. Depending on the vendor you purchase from, lashes can come in different lengths, sizes, curls, and even color! In most cases, the lashes are not 100% real mink. Make sure to buy from a rep who offers mink lashes that are treated (colored and permed). The color and perm guarantees that the lash will hold the color and curl. Another problem, allergies. If your client is allergic to cats or dogs, chances are that they may be allergic to the mink lashes. Make sure to ask these questions during a consultation, and be able to offer a solution (synthetic mink). Another problem? These can easily get kinked or crimped. Do not use tweezers or lash curlers with pressure. Be gentle. The last and biggest problem I have with Mink lashes, Animal Cruelty. Most reputable brands/reps you purchase from who carry mink are animal cruelty free. Make sure to purchase lashes that are animal cruelty free. 

left semi mink - right 100% real mink

Semi-Mink (Synthetic Mink)
 Similar to human hair/ mink lashes, these lush lashes are manufactured a high grade polymer. Depending on the brand/rep you purchase from, some lashes can be mixed with silk, or other materials, so make sure to check the ingredients from reps. Synthetic lashes are great to work with, because they are easy, perfectly uniformed, sized, curled, and more. The lashes can come in multiple colors, such as white, brown, black, red, green, blue, and more. They even offer two tone! This versatile lash is also light weight, and act as a natural lash. Depending on the vendor you buy from, and what size, they can be heavy and/or overly shiny. I prefer the "matte" lashes for clients. If they choose to have a shine, I'd than offer a lash sealer to help achieve that look, and help extend the lash life. My problem with these? Depending on lashes, they come in multiple styles, such as strip lashes, to W, Y, J(A), B, C, D, ect. lashes. Volume lashes, depending on the vendor, are a pain in the butt. They don't hold the position or the seperation, but instead bunch together, making it appear as one giant lash. What should be 4-5 lashes that are "0.5 or less weight" now appear to look like a .25 or heavier. Nasty. Cluster or strip lashes should never be applied as lash extensions, and neither should some volume. Again, buy from a reputable company.

Yellow Light: Not Recommended, but on the Market. 

Silk
Silk lashes are lighter than typical eyelash extensions allowing them to flex and act as a natural lash. Silk lashes also give a high gloss look, and is a popular lash type techs use. Silk is one of the chepeast materials available for purchase, depending on the vendor. Because of this, there have been cases where the silk lashes are not 100%. The problem? Like any other "thread" or "fabric material", it can absorb. So when you dip the lash into adhesive, and place on the lashes and set/dry, they become stiff. It's not fun having needles for lashes, when they are firm. Another issue that silk doesn't present, is make sure your client is not allergic to silk/satin. You'd be surprised, there are some people allergic to the material. Another problem? These can easily get kinked or crimped. Do not use tweezers or lash curlers with pressure. Be gentle.
silk: High gloss

Red Light:

Cluster "Party" Lashes &
Stip Lashes 
These should NEVER EVER EVER be applied as lash extensions. If your tech offers this, RUN in the other direction far far away. If applied with lash extension adhesive, to the natural lashes, they can cause damage the natural lash cycle, cause premature or permanent shedding or balding, skin irritation/damage to the lid. Because these lashes are not applied on a "one extension to one lash" basis, they are applied to a group of natural lashes (2-3 or more - or strips - portion/all). If applied, they are now screwing up the natural lash cycle, and are also extremely heavy and damaging to the natural integrity of natural lashes. It's one thing if these we're applied with a semi-soft adhesive, like "DUO" that lasts for only a day.... But if you are going to see a PROFESSIONAL, and they offer these with lash extension adhesive........RUN.
clusters gone wrong!

My suggestion?
CLIENTS - Make sure to do your homework. Ask your tech if they are licensed/certified, if they have reviews, reputable references, and what lashes/brand they use.
TECHS - Ask your brand/rep about the product. Do your homework for lashes, lash materials, ingredients, where they come from, etc.


Thursday, September 11, 2014

Local/Competitor Lash Academy's: Red Flags & Grey Areas

Lashes are one of the newest growing trends, and it seems that boutiques are popping up left and right. But like I've explained in the past you do not have to be licensed (esthetician and/or cosmetologist) to do this service. 
Lashes is a gray area service. Sort of like make up artists. You do not have to be licensed in order to become a license make up artist. (At least for the state of California.) But if you have certification of a reputable company, than you're more highly likely to succeed. And it will also help to have some knowledge, however some certification programs can be a joke. But because neither make up or lashes are regulated, there is a gray area of how academy's are ran, and who can teach. Because to be honest, there is NONE. So you're interested in becoming a lash extension technician, than it can be easy to acquire, but where to begin. There are so many academy's to choose from, SO why choose us or what to look for?

Here are some RED FLAGS.

Most lash academy's or education is taught by unlicensed technicians. Meaning they are not licensed estheticians or cosmetologists.
A local competitors add had advertised (but I will re frame from mentioning who)  

"One of our instructors has her Masters Degree in Education and one has their degree in Psychology."

I laughed so hard, I almost fell out of my seat after reading the add. Just because you have a degree in education and psychology, doesn't mean you have any experience with beauty, cosmetology, esthetics, cosmetics, health - safety-sanitation, diseases, etc.  
Which I hope is a RED FLAG to students and/or clients. 

Some competitors rank there information, education, or program stating "5 Star". 
What I would like to ask is, who the hell is rating your class/packet/information/etc. 5 stars? Yourself? the business? or actual students? Because the only one who would matter would be the Board of Barbering and Cosmetology of California. But, because its not regulated, of course it wouldn't be ranked by them. SO than who? 

It's reminds me of the movie "Elf", when Will Ferrell runs into a hole in the wall coffee shop, because the advertisement on the window said,"Worlds best cup of coffee." He truly believed they had the worlds best, and bursts in the cafe to congratulate the staff. The staff and customers look at him like he's gone mad. Here's the clip.

Don't be like Will. Don't fall for FALSE ADVERTISEMENT. Don't be afarid to ask for license and certification verification from your lash instructors. That information should be easily accessible.

Here is another example of a competitors academy add with a red flag. They had labeled there instructor as "Master Level Trainer." Again, I would love to know who had ranked any lash tech as a Master level trainer?
It would make sense if you are a "Master Colorist" after taking a advanced hair color class and if you we're a licensed cosmetologist. But the difference is, one is regulated and one is not. So how can someone just label themselves as extremely advanced, when they have no credentials?
Who is your instructor?

Another red flag from another lash training add was immediate "Job Placement". If clients knew this, they'd be MUCH more alarmed at this offer. Don't get me wrong, everyone has to start somewhere. But I recommend at least 2-3 months of practice and building a clientele mobile or as an added service. That way, you can be sure that you will continue to offer lashes. But immediate job placement is a bit disturbing. That's like offering a teaching position to a kindergartener. (No offense to any new lash techs.) These people should be looking into students as students. If they are interested in hiring them, than I would have been checking there backgrounds, getting references, making sure they have LIABILITY INSURANCE, and etc. These places do not even question.
Trust me when I say, I've worked for some shady and some professional lash boutqiues/salons. Some are professional, and some are a joke. Take my word for it. But to see some of the certifications and classes offered, that are taught by the shady or unlicensed people, REALLLLLLLLY Concerns me. But because no one talks about it,  it goes unnoticed by clients and students.

The lash issue I'll touch base on is lash kits. Lash kits can vary from sizes, prices, and products. Again, most nonlicensed boutiques cannot purchase "reputable" product. Meaning they are forced to buy from oversears or through local wholesalers who purchase overseas. The product can come from places like China, Japan, South Korea, etc. That's why most lash academy's and education programs are so cheap. The product is cheap, and they are able to offer class with kits at an insane low price. But is it worth is? Well first off, the sizes of products is usually a joke. The biggest complaint I've heard from students who have taken classes/certifications locally had said the quality of product was poor, as well as the sizes and quantity we're small and not adequate.

Meaning that the product is most likely SKETCHY. Most ALL adhesives contain harsh and harmful ingredients such as acrylic and formaldehyde. These are the leading ingredients for allergic reactions, and  most of the ingredients are found in nail products, and should never be used near or around the eyes. 

The Mink lashes also are not "animal cruelty free. Mink's (Part of the mustela family, Otters, Ferrets, Mongoose, Weasels, etc.) are gathered and slaughtered or treated unfairly and in poor conditions for there fur. There fur is used for lashes and other items. 

 My suggestion? Make sure you product is made and manufactured in the USA. That includes free of formaldehyde and acrylics, as well as animal cruelty free. And make sure the educators gives you the name of the product or brand they purchase from. Also, Request a list that comes in the lash kit, and what comes with your class. If they don't do any of the above, I'd take that as a red flag.

 Compared to Our own Lash Academy : Urban Lash Academy, I think it speaks for itself. Here's a part of our add for our classes.

 "Compared to competitor certification programs, learn from licensed and certified lash techs, who have experience in the beauty industry. Most education lash programs are taught by only certified lash techs, who do not have a esthetician or cosmetology license. Since the state of California does not regulate this service, the certification programs are not regulated. At Urban Lash Academy, we strive for our students to have a high end education and a legitimate experience. The only state that is regulated is Texas, so we abide by Texas eyelash extension specialty license rules and regulations, while abiding California state board regulations in our salon. Learn the difference in legalities and what the truth with Eyelash Extensions is.


We also carry 2 exclusive lash product lines, specially formulated for our lash salon. Most lash salons that are only certified, and do not have a licensed esthetician or cosmetologist, cannot buy reputable product from the USA. Meaning they are directed to buy from overseas, or from wholesales in the US who buy from overseas. Those products usually come from China, Japan, South Korea, etc. The danger of these products can contain harmful ingredients such as formaldehyde and acrylics, and are leading ingredients for allergic reactions. Since this service is not regulated by the FDA, these products are able to make its way to the US, regardless of its ingredients or contents.  Don’t get poor quality product and harmful product, be able to sleep well at night, and your clients too, with a high end quality product, made on our home soil. Every student from our program is able to purchase our exclusive product, even after the class. It’s only offered exclusively to our students and staff.

We offer small class base, for more efficient one-on-one time with instructors and staff. Don’t get distracted, or feel discouraged. Have the proper attention you deserve with our staff. The max class occupancy is 6 students. We also offer two education packages that come with a free refresher course, at any time.



Eyelash extension application is a technical and tedious art, requiring a steady hand, endurance, attentiveness and skilled technique. Unlike strip/false eyelashes, which are applied as a single strip or group/cluster, "individuals", that only last a few hours to a few days. Eyelash Extensions are individual lash extensions, bonding one lash extension to a natural lash. With our proper application technique, lash extensions help you to create a more natural look, each set customized while conforming to natural eye shapes and keeping the integrity of natural eyelashes. Our program and training is designed to maximize the longevity of lash extensions for each client, while maintaining the health of their natural lashes and lash cycle.  Our experienced, licensed & certified, and professional staff will instruct each student in today's most popular specialty training course.
Our luxury education is a one day, 8 hour intensive, technical, and superior seminar, providing the best licensed/certified professionals in the beauty industry. A two part program, our training covers both theory and practical courses. The theory course, which provides diligent and extensive amount of information on health and safety, sanitation, diseases, the history of lashes, proper application, techniques, product knowledge, legality information and forms for clients and technicians, business information, marketing information, lash science and theory, lash placement, and more. The practical course, is our hands on and in-depth training, supervised by our educators. The second portion of the class is all “hands on” while supervised by our lash instructors.

Our academy kits, which is included in each course, has our exclusive lash extensions and products solely made for our company. We offer two different options of kits, that can help accommodate any budget, but maintaining the quality and integrity of products. Only our students are given access for future purchases of product after completion of our training. Once completion, our students receive a certificate of training upon completion of our program!"

Other lash programs, such as Nova Lash, is extremely reputable. However, I have my own experience and opinions with the brad and products. However you can only be a licensed esthetician and/or cosmetologist, in order to take the class. 

My advice to perspective students, is to do your homework. Ask questions to instructors and the academy/lash programs. Ask about what the program holds, certification, products, ingredients, etc. 

Tags# OC, Orange County, Mission Viejo, Aliso Viejo, Tustin, Irvine, Lake Forest, RSM, Rancho Santa Margarita, CA, California, Lashes, Eyelashes, Lash Extensions, Eyelash Extensions, Lash Academy, Lash Artist, Lash Technician, Newport, Laguna, Dana Point, Costa Mesa, SJC, San Juan Capistrano, San Clemente, Coto de caza, Dove Canyon, Trabuco Canyon, Yorba Linda, Anaheim, Anaheim Hills, Laguna Hills, Laguna Niguel, Laguna Beach, Doheney, Urban Lash Spa, Licenseing, 



Tuesday, September 2, 2014

The Truth Behind Eyelash Tinting (Eyelash Dye)

Updated and revised January 2017
Updated January 2015
 
“Permanent eyelash                       
and eyebrow tints and dyes have been known to cause serious eye injuries,
including blindness. There are no color additives approved by FDA for permanent dyeing
or tinting of eyelashes or eyebrows. FDA has an Import Alert in effect for eyelash and eyebrow
dyes containing coal tar colors.”
 
Because FDA does not approve of eyelash or brow tinting services or products with ammonia, the have been banned in the United States. Meaning, no one who is licensed or in the US may perform such services, or have such products available.
 
_______________________________________________________________________
 
 
 
 
They really do make everything, 
since Lash Tinting exists! 

Lash tinting and brow tinting are great for clients who are tired of consistently having to apply mascara or to pencil in brows, in order to maintain color to the lashes or brows.  With over 45 colors to choose from, (refectocil) color can last up to 6-8 weeks, depending how fast your lash cycle/brow cycle is. This is especially great for blonde clients, so you can actually see your lashes. Best part?
It's both top and bottom lashes that get colored! :)


There is a catch.
Some clients think that lash tinting is a substitute for eyeliner or for curlier, thicker, or fuller lashes.
This is NOT.
Some clients think that brow tinting is for penciling in eyebrows that have been missing. 
This is NOT.
You can only tint/dye the hairs, meaning, if you have spots that are missing, the color isn't going to hold on your skin. This applies to both lash and brow tinting. So if you want an eyeliner effect, or to not have to pencil in brows for missing spots, than think again.  

There are pros and cons to tinting, so let me elaborate.
PROS:  
  • Color lasts up to 6-8 weeks for lash or brow tinting. 
  • Be able to choose from over 45 colors to match or style. 
  • Waterproof, color never runs
  • Low maintenance
  • Great for blondes of fair hair clients, be able to see your lashes and/or brows, or for clients who want a balance to their natural features.
  •  No more coloring in brows to maintain color. Have smudge free brows, with color that never runs.


CONS:  
  • Does not add thicker of fullness to lashes
  • Does not curl lashes
  • Does not add color to eye lids, for an appearance of eyeliner - Can not be on eyelids or skin. 
  • Does not add color to skin to conceal missing or over plucked areas. 
  • Color can fade depending on how often you shower or wash your face.

In some several states, such as Tennessee, New York, Oregon, and Massachusets, lash tinting is banned/illegal. 

In most states such as California, only LICENSED COSMETOLOGISTS, are able to provide lash tinting and lash perming services. 
Not Esthetician.
Doesn't matter if the product is vegetable based, 
Peroxide is peroxide. 
A chemical is a chemical.
Chemicals such as color, can only be serviced by licensed cosmetologists because that's what we learned in school, estheticians, barbers, and nail techs did not. 

I've been seeing a lot of Lash Boutiques who are NOT licensed and ONLY certified, actually providing these services. Which is terrifying, considering that the state is not regulating efficiently. 

On Dr. Oz, where they question lash extensions and lash tinting, I witnessed someone applying color while the clients eyes are OPEN.
I couldn't believe my eyes to be truly honest. 
Color/chemicals such as lash tint, no matter how gentle, could cause irritation, damage, or even blindness, or other medical problems to the eyes, if the product made contact with the eye. 
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS.
The color should always be off the skin and the eyes should ALWAYS be CLOSED.
Thus why you cannot have an "eyeliner" effect either.  

If you are interested in lash tinting or have any questions, Make sure to do your homework! 
Ask you provider if they are a licensed cosmetologist, what color line they use, and how the process/service works.

Have any questions reguarding lash tinting? 
ASK US!
Urbanlashspa@gmail.com or hollyatUrbanLashSpa@gmail.com