Lash lift troubleshooting

 Before Lash Extensions became popular, it was a world mascara, strip lashes, and lash lifts. Lash lift, also known as lash perm(s) or keratin lash lifts, essentially is a service that is a mild form of perming and setting the lashes to help give a curlier appearance. As a confession, the first time I ever got a lash lift, it was a horrible experience. My experience boiled down to a technician who didn’t seem like they knew what they were doing. At that point in my life,  I told myself that lash lift were not worth it. Not a shocker, right?  However, I later on realize how many red flags and problems that had arise with the technician Who did my lift. And IF I had the right technician with no red flags, maybe it would be the opposite experience?

This, I found to be true. It really comes down to who know what they are doing and who is truly qualified. Besides, my first experience was over 10 years ago.

Lash lifting has come along way. And in that time of the products that have been formulated, so had the service. So, I thought I would share my list of troubleshooting for both clients and technicians in order to achieve the best results.

🌺Firstly, make sure your technician is qualified AND licensed to do the service in your state. Not every state is regulated. However, in most states (similar to California) in order for a technician to handle chemicals such as perm solution, your technician must be a licensed cosmetologist.)

🌺During your consultation, it’s always important to discuss possible allergies. When it comes to the service, make sure to always patch test your client 24 hours before their initial appointment to make sure clients don’t have any reactions. 

🌺Lash Tinting. Always apply the lash tinting before the lift. That way the lashes are dark, but will not mess with the curl. Most brands may recommend to tint afterward, but I find that the lashes loses it’s curl. When it comes to tinting, make sure to check with your state regulations. All lash and brow tinting services are not FDA approved and all services are illegal in California. 

🌺Make sure your clients come with clean lashes. Any leftover product, oils, make up, etc. needs to come off to give your lashes the best chance of lifting/curling.

🌺Make sure to prime the lashes. Pretty much a step below clean lashes, make sure to prime them. Priming the lashes will help balance the ph levels of the natural lashes but will also rid them of any leftover oils. This is great for oily clients.

🌺Avoid applying too much adhesive. Applying too much adhesive to the lashes/shields can make it harder for the product to penetrate to the hair follicles.

🌺Make sure the lash shields are flush with the skin. If you have clients with hooded eyes, apply a small piece of tape over the brown, the same way you would for eyelash extensions. Adding small pieces to keep the shield in place is also recommended. 

🌺Try not to maneuver, or pull the shield. This could result in the shield moving, or revealing a clients water line, allowing product possibly access the eye. 

🌺When applying the solution, make sure to not apply too closely to the lash line UNLESS your client wants a curlier appearance, max curl.

🌺Be careful of your timing! Make sure to not over-process and follow the directions given to you. 

🌺Never process the lashes twice. Again, avoid over-processing. This is your only shot, or else you may cause frizzy and damaged lashes. 

🌺Never ever ever CUT the lashes. I feel this is pretty self explanatory. 

🌺Give your client an aftercare kit. Just like you would for lash extensions or brow lamination. This will help get a client the most out of their service. 

🌺Tell your client not to wet them for 24-48 hours. Just like any perm, the best results and the best chance for them to last a decent amount of time is to not get the wet for the first 24-48 hours.

Any other questions, comments? 

Leave me a comment or email me at suitelash@gmail.com

-Holly 

#oc #orangecounty #California #cosmetology #esthetician #aesthetician #lashes #eyelashes #lashextensions #eyelashextensions #brows #browlamination #megavolume #mega #volume #hybrid #classic #russianvolume #lashlift #lashlifts #lashperm #keratinlashlifts #lashsuite #suitelash #lashartist 

Patch Testing (Allergy Testing) for Eyelash Extensions

In one of my earlier posts, I’ve written about eyelash extensions allergy testing or a.k.a. “Patch Testing.” I wanted to update and revisit a few things that could either be confusing or complex to both clients and techs.

The term, “Patch test” is a cosmetology term that mainly hairdressers use for testing hair color, chemical services, and/or hair products. The test itself is applying a tiny bit of the chemicals/product/etc. to either to the inner elbow or the behind the ear. And wait 24-48 hours to see if a client has an allergy. For hairdressers, behind the ear is most likely the best result. However, the inner elbow contains a lot of nerve endings, that may give us equally sufficient results as behind the ear. 

The process is slightly different for lash technicians. First and foremost, eyelash extension adhesive under any circumstances should never be applied to the skin. The adhesive for some sensitive clients, or if clients are allergic, can experience a chemical burn by the adhesive. However, to patch test for eyelash extensions is still possible. After years of trial and error and experience, I find that testing a few lashes (less than 10) per eye, is the only way. Because eye’s are a mucous membrane, I find it to be a “whole other ball game “ to test. The “Patch Testing” for eyelash extensions process involved the following.

First, prep and prime the eye as if any other eyelash extensions client. This includes, gel pads, tape, prime, clean the lashes, etc.

Next, apply only 3-10 lashes per eye. Either spaces out just 3-5 in the outer corners. 

Finish by drying and adding a bonding agent (adhesive accelerator to help cure/dry faster.) (NOTE: I don’t recommend nano-misting.) 

Wait 24 hours (up to 48 hours) to see if a client has any allergic reaction. 

Some allergies defer from one another. Not every client will be allergic to adhesive, which it could be products. 

A few things a tech could troubleshoot for client allergies is,

Gelpads,

Tape,

Primer, (ingredients)

Cleanser, (ingredients)

Lashes, (Semi-mink, silk, mink, etc?)

Adhesive, (does the adhesive contain carbon black or clear?, different formulated adhesive ingredients, not to mention where are the adhesive manufactured, etc.)

Nano-mist,

Bonder (adhesive accelerator).

After troubleshooting all of these things to pin point an allergy, if a client is allergic to the adhesive unfortunately a client is no longer a good candidate for eyelash extensions. Most if not all eyelash extension adhesives on the market contains the ingredient, “cyanoacrylate.” It can be found in both sensitive formulated and regular eyelash extension adhesives. Most reputable eyelash adhesive brands are formulated and or tested by ophthalmologists. It’s important to never use any other adhesives that are not for the eye. Until the market comes up with another product to substitute adhesive, some clients may have to settle for lash products that aren’t lash extensions. If a client experiences an allergy, it’s best to seek medical advise.

Have an allergy question? Experience? Comment below!

Why did I get denied a lash fill? (All about “foreign fills.”)

 

picture 1: foreign work
picture 2: clean lashes after removal
picture 3: my work (full set hybrid)

Typically, there are two types of reasons why a technician has done this. 

Scenarios:

1. You scheduled an appointment with a new tech, 
2. You were out of town and had a fill with a different tech but now you’re back.

Either scenario your current lash technician has either denied you a “fill.” Tech’s label these sorts of clients as “foreign fills.” Tech’s (depending on the situation) will have most likely recommended the client to either two courses of action. The first would be to remove what you have on and get a fresh full set. Or secondly in some cases clients are recommended to take a break for lash extensions. 

You be asking yourself:

Why?!? 

Why can’t they just fill in?!?

I don’t care about my natural lashes/extensions/lash product that’s on my lashes/etc. 

Most tech’s have good reasoning. Other techs have taken a more personal stance on “foreign fill” clients. Essentially, they just aren’t comfortable. I have found that some techs actually charge clients more on being a foreign fill.😬 In my opinion, I find charging clients extra because they are from another tech is just wrong. I’ve never been charged extra for a regular hair appointment with my hairdresser, doctor, etc. However, the bottom line is technicians want clients to happy BUT tec: don’t want to be reliable with another techs work and product that is on a foreign fill client. Nor can we guarantee the product and work that has been done on someones lashes. Not to mention the product and work make not be professionally done or possibly compatible with our own work and product.

Foreign Fill Work 🚫
(Not my work) 

Some clients may not realize that not every state in the US regulates eyelash extensions. In some states, you have to be a licensed aesthetician or cosmetologist, however eyelash extension services are not taught in beauty school curriculums. Licensing AND certification of a reputable brand and researching technicians, looking at reviews, and looking at pictures of their work will reveal if someone is qualified or not. It’s unfortunate for clients, however until the states regulate better I would highly recommend researching any technician before hand as listed above. In my opinion, find someone who is both a licensed esthetician and/or cosmetologist (or in Texas and eyelash extension technician license) AND a certified eyelash extension technician with a reputable brand. It’s not just about the service and the technique but also the the understand of health, safety, sanitation, disinfection and sterilization. 

Part of why your tech may have denied a fill is also your previous technicians technique. Maybe your previous technician isn't allowing enough drying time in between lashes (the process of lashing) causing "stickies" a.k.a. lashes sticking together. Mass amounts of lashes sticking together can cause damage over time due to it damaging the lash cycle. Part of this can be caused by a technicians certification/education. 

Same goes for products. Some adhesives may be thicker/thinner than others, allowing different drying times. Humidity and temperature can also tamper with adhesives, which could be a catalyst to a technicians bad technique and not allowing enough drying time. Make sure your technician is using a reputable brand of lash extensions. It's also important to understand that not all eyelash extension products are the same. Most quality eyelash extension brands have been developed or created by cosmetic chemists, physicians, and/or have a msds and ingredient sheets available on all their products. Some companies may not offer this due to private labeling and/or products coming from overseas. Procucts can also be confused with “cluster lashes” or “individual lashes.” Clusters look like pieces or chunks of strip lashes cut down into sections. Again, to avoid this, make sure to research your technician, ask questions and view both reviews and pictures of work. 

I feel that the only way I can tell clients what to avoid, I have to educate them. The best thing you can do is, "do your homework." Researching a technicians products, work, licensing, and certification will be the key. 

Have any questions or comments?

leave a comment!

xo-Holly 

@suitelashbyholly

#foreignfills #suitelash #eyelashes #lashes #lashextensions #eyelashextensions