Why lash technicians tell clients to stay away from heat 🔥

If you are a current client you may be familiar with this lash "aftercare" rule. Maybe you've seen this rule on your aftercare card or you've been told aftercare instructions after getting eyelash extensions. (or at least I hope your technician his taught you that.) And if you're a tech, then you should be familiar. It’s fairly self-explanatory and simple: avoid heat and use of heat around lash extensions. Yet the misconception is that you may be using heat without realizing it. How can you identify if your lashes have been over exposed to heat? Trust me when I say, you'll know.  When extensions are exposed to heat extensions can deform and warp, lose there curl (and in some crazy cases, curl backwards), look “squiggly”, or look like a burnt ends similar to natural hair. Unfortunately, once heat is applied or the extensions are exposed to heat, there’s typically no going back and no fix besides a removal and a fresh full-set.

 

What could’ve possibly caused this? 

🔥Ovens:

Opening your oven while you're cooking can be the culprit. In general, cooking over a hot griddle, stove, oven, etc. can partially be reasons of why your lashes have lost their curl or have been "fried."

🔥Bbq’s/smokers:

Just like your oven, bbq's and smokers can have the same effect.

🔥Sauna: 

Saunas and long exposure in a sauna can affect the lash extensions causing them to lose their curl. With the constant high humidity this may also cause poor retention problems. 

🔥Heated lash curler:

Heated lash curlers should NEVER be used while wearing eyelash extensions. This is probably one of the worst ways to cause damage to the extensions. Heated lash curlers should be needed considering you have curlier lashes (the extensions.) If you feel your lashes aren't curly enough, talk to your technician to change your current style. 

🔥Hair dryer:

Hair dryers are typically used ONLY on the cool or cold setting to help dry lashes, specifically after taking a bath/shower, washing the face and or washing the lashes. However, some clients who may be using the dryer on a warmer or hot setting while drying their hair, may be causing damage to the lashes. Especially if someone is using the dryer closely to the face and or framing hairs/bangs. Hot brushes, flat irons, and hot tools can also be a factor. 

🔥Smoking:

In some cases smokers can also experience heat damage. Part of the reason is lighting a cigarette so closely to the face. 

🔥Facial steamers:

Heat damage can be caused by facial steamers from your recent facial or esthetic appointment. Make sure to mention something to your technician so they can avoid the eyes or to put on a cooler setting and/or further away from the face. 

Be on the lookout for what to avoid. Was there something I missed? Comment below! 

Make sure to follow me on ig @SuiteLashbyHolly

 

Lash Lifts (Lash Perms) & Brow Lamination regulation in California.

Over the last ten years there has been a lot of new services that have surfaced. Lash lifts (perms) and brow lamination are a few to name. And with popularity comes demand. However, professionals need to make sure that before they jump ship and dive into the deep end that they are 

Brow Lamination 

researching and responsible to know if they are even qualified to offer services such as these. And for clients, I hope they are doing their research by choosing the properly licensed professional. A lot of services such as lash and brow tinting often get swept under the rug, and are often performed by more than just licensed cosmetologist which is illegal in most states that are regulated and do not have the service banned.

As a licensed cosmetologist myself, I can’t help but feel irritated. I specifically went to school to become a licensed cosmetologist by learning how to handle and how to safely use chemicals such as tinting, perm solution, etc. and more than half of the time, I see only license estheticians offering the services, though they are not licensed to do so. Either they are unaware, or just straight up negligent of the laws. 

I realize part of the problem is also retail and brands. Some brands that sell products for these services will sell to those who are not licensed. Whether it’s right or wrong, I find that this is a powder keg of a chemical catastrophe that gives the service and licensed professionals a bad reputation. It’s just waiting to happen. We can also thank YouTube for tutorials for the "training" aspect. It's disturbing, because I'm sure these same people aren't aware that tinting and perm solution combined can be combustable. Yet again, that's something you learn in cosmetology. 

Each state is different, so to whoever is reading this, it is vital for you to do your own research on your state (or country) regulations. 

In the state of California, 

Eyelash extension services are regulated to license estheticians in cosmetologist only.

Lash lift or lash perming is only regulated to cosmetologist only.

There is currently no written regulation on brow lamination. However, brow lamination and lash perms or lash lifts are the same ingredients, therefore it will fall under the same category. Only licensed cosmetologist should be handling brow lamination. 

You can find the regulation here: 

https://www.barbercosmo.ca.gov/forms_pubs/ib_lashbrowserv.pdf

My personal opinion, the eyelash extensions industry and these other services mentioned to me are equivalent to "the Wild West." I know it sounds ridiculous, however there's no crackdowns, just because your licensed doesn't mean that people know how to do the services, these services are not taught and in most states are not part of any beauty school curriculum, etc. Thus, why certifications on top of a license is important. (Not just one or the other.) Until the rest of the country follows Texas' example, I hope professionals get the education and proper licensing and certification, and for clients I hope you do your homework. ❤️

How to get the best lash extension retention for both clients & techs.

Just like the Kardashians, you also must keep up with your lashes. 😂

You have a full set, or a fresh fill and you’re in love. But how to keep your retention this way before your next fill appointment? 

As technicians, we try to do our best to give clients the lashes they want with the best retention. However, we may not be completely at fault for retention issues. Unfortunately, we're not magicians.😂 

If you are a client currently getting eyelash extensions, here’s a couple ways of how you could expand the longevity of your lashes. 

Arrive to your appointment with a fresh face: 

Honestly the best piece of advice. If you want to have the best retention and adherence, arrive to your appointment with no make-up, product build up, or heavy eye creams or moisturizers.

 

Aftercare routine:

Especially for new clients, your technician should either give you an aftercare instruction card, or some form of aftercare instructions. Follow what is recommended. For example, on my cards: 

Avoid washing eyes, showering for the first 24 hours.

Avoid steam, sweating, saunas, etc. For the first 48 hours.

Avoid rubbing and pulling your lashes.

Avoid heat, ovens, barbecues, blow dryers, etc. Heat can distort extensions.

Avoid any oil based products around the eyes. 

Do not use an eyelash curler on your extensions.

Avoid oil based, waterproof, or fiber mascara‘s.

Make sure to clean your lashes. Make sure to clean with an oil free soap or make up remover. Lash bath is highly recommended.

Book a fill every 2 to 3 weeks, they fill in areas where your natural lashes have fallen out and a new lashes are growing in. This will keep your lash style as full as possible. 

Clean your lashes:

This is one of my top priorities that I reccomend to clients. It’s important that clients clean their lashes every day after the first initial 24 hour mark. It helps clean oil, debris, dead skin cells, make up, product, and any other build up. It also keeps your skin and your lashes healthy. This also avoids any eye conditions , problems, or infections such as blepharitis, or styes, etc. this will also keep your lash cycle as clean and clear as possible to help with your natural lash integrity/cycle. 

Bella Lash Intelliseal & Natural Touch 

Sealer:

Depending on your technician, sealer’s may be a solution, especially in between fills. Sealers, almost act as a mascara but is more of a liquid base. Depending on the brand, they can come in both clear and black. The solution will coat evenly over the lashes, and will help protect your lash extension bonds from oil, humidity, etc. This can help give clients the best retention, and to help protect their investment.

*Reccomendation*:

Between the black or the clear sealer, I typically like to recommend the black. Unless you have other colored lashes. The black helps blend in natural lashes with extensions, makes everything darker and blend in better. 

Daily activities: (sweating, saunas, spas, swimming, etc.) 

Though eyelash extensions are waterproof, the idea of daily activities such as, crying, sweating, hot yoga/cycle, etc., saunas, jacuzzis, swimming, sleeping hard on face/side, etc. can affect the lash extensions bonds. Some clients may not have this issue, but some some that can't explain why the lashes don't hold, these activities could definitely be the culprit.

Be aware of you cycle:

The human body is a mystery. Every clients bodies do different things and react differently. The same goes for clients & lash cycles. If you’re unsure of how fast your cycle is, I always recommend after a full set or a fill that clients take a photo. And after one week take another photo, and two weeks take another photo. Some clients wait to 2 1/2 to 3 weeks to take another photo. That way clients can monitor their cycles and when they are due for a fill and to observe how fast it is.

 Some clients/cycles are faster than others. Something to also consider, if you’ve ruled out everything in this entire post, sometimes lash cycles can go faster with lash growth serums, biotin, probiotics, certain certain, prenatals, medications, etc. 

For techs:

*Make sure to clean and primer the lashes at the beginning of your service. After applying either, make sure to thoroughly dry the lashes. If needed, wait 2 to 3 minutes before applying lashes/adhesive. 

*Primer is a must especially if your client has oily skin. 

*For the best retention, make sure your adhesive is up to date (not old), mixed/shake well. 

*And lastly, use a bonder. Make sure to allow 3 minutes between drying the lashes before applying at the end. If you don't have a bonder, try a sealer as a alternative. 

*Check your humidity and temp. levels that are recommended with each adhesive if you have any adhesive errors occurring. 

Lash Service Errors & Troubleshooting ⚠️

There can be a lot of variables that can make or break a lash services, for both clients and technicians. For clients, it’s about the experience and the overall outcome, but are they comfortable? Can they/you feel any discomfort with the tape or gelpads? What about fumes from the adhesive? During the service, are the lights a little too bright? etc? As technicians, it should be a top priority that as apart of all services that all clients are comfortable and have a wonderful experience. Sometimes, mishaps during the service can happen along the way. And for first time clients, they may not know what to expect. Pros, it’s always good to go over occurrences with clients and especially newbies, rather than a client asking, “what’s that burning?” When they didn’t expect it, didn’t know to expect it. For some, it can be a complete turn off. Make sure to walk all clients through a service beforehand and all the while too. And not all errors are the techs fault. For technicians, are you clients eyes symmetrical? Did they have on any facial creams, make up, etc? Are your clients eyes fluttering? There’s a few things for both clients and techs that can troubleshoot certain situations.

So what are some errors that clients experience?

humidity, temperature is vital. 

1- Getting too close to the eye with gelpads and or tape.

I have experienced this myself as a client, and it sucks but it’s luckily not the end of the world. Unfortunately, either the gelpad or tape during the service gets too close to the eye, which can “scratch” the eye. Causing redness, irritation and sensitivity. It feels like there’s a lash or sand in the eye, when in reality, it’s the scratch. It’s usually located isolated. (Usually the corners or lower part of the eye. Or wherever placement was too close.) It sucks, but usually clears up in 24-48 hours. It’s recommended by doctors to use eye drops to help soothe the eyes effected. Most the time this is by placement from the technician. Or the tape or gel pad is not sticky or can loosen and “ride up.” This can be product default or by a client talking. This can also be caused by a gel pad being too “thick.” Which i’ll cover as another reason below. Depending on what type of tape a technician is using, this could also be another fault. Thicker tape could be a culprit as well.

*Note: This is not the same thing as an allergic reaction.*

2- Tape lifting the lids (tape over brows).

When I first started lashing, this was never a thing. This method became more popular within the last 5-6 years. The reason for tape over the brows is to gently lift the lids to get better access to all lashes. Especially for clients with more hooded eyes or for those with excess skin and for those clients who have layers of lashes. I personally rarely use this method. It may be that I have been lashing for so long that I have never needed or felt the need to really use this method. Again, I have also experienced this method as a client. Personally, I don’t like it. It makes me feel as if someone is trying to open my eyes and at the same time asking me to keep the shut. Lol 😂🤷🏼‍♀️ It makes my eyes twitch a bit more because of the manipulation. The other factor is that by lifting the eyes slightly this way, the eyes may become more open giving access for fumes to get to the eyes. Causing sensitivity and redness to the eyes, and possibly watering eyes during the service.

3- Tape shifting lids to the side (tape on lids). 

This is more of a newer method. It’s a small piece of tape that attaches from the inside corner to the outer corners of the eyes. This manipulation of the skin helps techs get all the lashes on the inside corner lashed to be exposed for application. The inside corner lashes can sometimes get tucked underneath the gelpad and or tape during application. Sometimes this manipulation can cause exposure and lift to the inside corners more, making the accessible to fumes and causing eyes to water/have sensitivities. 

4- Gel pad thickness.

I covered my top 5 gel pads earlier last month as one of my blog topics. Gel pads can vary in different textures, shapes, sizes, ingredients and thickness. Thickness is extremely important. And for some clients, the depending on how their eyes close naturally gel pads can tamper with this manipulation. Gelpads can also tend to ride up, just like #1 with tape. Some gelpads aren’t as sticky, which can cause them to slide or move around more. Sometimes it can be the clients skin and or excess makeup that can make the gelpads not stick as well. Depending on each clients sensitivities, some clients can have skin sensitivities to the ingredients that are in gelpads. Some containing latex or perfumes for example. Make sure gel pads aren’t close to the eyes, and try out some thinner gelpads. This isn’t as much as a tech problem, or error, as it is just a product issue. Luckily, it’s an easy fix to just swap out with paper tape. 

5- Products getting in the eyes.

With any of these examples, with a little bit of lifting, shifting or any accessibility to the eyes, besides adhesive fumes even products such as lash baths, primers, sealers/bonders, or removers can also cause irritation. (Note: Not a sensitivity to the products or ingredients themselves. That’s a whole other issue.) This is a no brainer, really. But it’s also can be a troubleshooting issue. 

6- Temperature & humidity.

This is more of a tech issue. As a tech, I despise doing “house calls” or being mobile. Partly because of the traveling and having to bring some many items, but also because I have no idea what type of atmosphere I am walking into. If the temperature, humidity and circulation is not compatible with my adhesives or products..... it’s going to be a long and rough appointment to get through and/or you’ll have to bring additional equipment. And chances are, this can also be a leading factor in a clients retention. 

Recently a client told me that she’s been having some issues during “house calls” with a tech I have recommended for lashes (when I’m either sick or unavailable.) She stated that the last few appointments with this tech, she experienced a lot of fumes where she never had this occurrence before. I told her, it could be the product, wether it’s newer, cheap or old, but honestly it could also be the temperature, humidity and circulation. Without those 3, they can also effect the appointment just as much as the adhesive itself. I’ve worked in terribly humidity. Too high, too low, etc. But once you find the “sweet spot” and by the help of a hygrometer, humidifier or dehumidifier and following the used adhesives recommend temperature & humidity levels, can make allllll the world of difference. 

7- Circulation 

Another tech troubleshoot. Circulation can be a factor. Some techs may only dry a clients lashes at the end, or in between segments to allow the adhesive to dry quicker and to push away fumes for more sensitive clients. Personally, I have a fan on in the distance behind me while I work. I find this to be helpful as it helps push the fumes away from the face and helps dry my sections as I work. Unfortunately, some clients may be too sensitive for fans to be on during the entire appointment, even if it’s a gentle breeze. Most reasons can be season allergies, excessive dry eyes, etc. It’s may be a matter of trying to find the right balance with each client. 

8- Lighting

This can also be a tech problem. Lighting can also be an issue. Some clients that are more sensitive to light than others. Make sure to have appropriate light for you to still be able to work but also for the clients to be comfortable. Offering a dimmed room with one flood light that is dimmable, such as glam core can help with this. Another benefit would be color franels or gel colors to go over the light if the “white” is too bright. This can also add some benefits for different skin types as well. This will also help clients with fluttering eyes. Obviously, there are many various lights to work with. Personally, my favorite will always be glamcore solely because as an investment and with the dimmers, it works the best.

9- Caffeine 

This can be both a client and tech problem. For Clients and techs, consuming caffeine before an appointment can actually make oneself “jittery”, making it more difficult to relax. For techs, this can result in shaky hands. For clients, this can result in fluttering eyes. Try to not take caffeine up to 4 hours minimum before an appointment. 

10- Face Masks (During Covid-19)

We’ve had a year under our belt with wearing facemarks, but it’s somewhat of a new ball game to work on clients that are wearing face masks. It’s not a big deal, however for techs, be diligent about how you place you tape and gulps. Some face masks may be in the way of placement, and during the service can make some tape and gel pads lift, move, shift, etc. This can be especially true with talking clients. For clients, wear a lightweight face mask or a medical grade (typical blue and white) face mask. I find these to be lightweight and easy to work around without compromising our placement. 

Have any issues as a client or tech that I didn't include?

Have any questions, comments, concerns? 

email me or leave me a comment

suitelash@gmail.com

xoxo

Holly