Thursday, December 23, 2021

Lash Tech Tweezer 911


There is nothing worse than dropping your favorite tweezers and ruining them. In a lash techs world, this is truly one of our worst nightmares. Unfortunately, I am soooooooo clumsy. I typically have at least two to three pairs of tweezers that get trashed every year. Give or take. 

I browse a lot of lash tech support groups and online groups in search of what to do or how to fix damaged tweezers. Sadly, there's not a lot of recommendations. 

Recommendations to "quick fix":

Sanding:
By taking a nail file, you can gently sand down the tweezers. This cam help dull tweezers regain their texture to grab lashes if they have become slick or are having a hard time holding onto or grabbing a lash. Be careful not to sand down too much, or else you can dull and thin out the metal and the structure all together.

Pliers/Jewelry Pliers:
Maybe some of the tweezers are "kinked" or warped due to dropping them directly on the sharpest part of the tweezers. Pliers to the rescue jewelry pliers are a bit better than your average pliers from a hardware store, as they are a little more gentle with the metal. You can gently manipulate the tweezers back into it's original form. This is typically a good recommendation for tweezers with not a major deformation from the drop. 

Some people have resorted to squeezing their tweezers to try to realign them with other tweezers, etc. I just find whatever tactics may work. But may not. 

Other suggestions:

Sharpener Services:
You can find a local cosmetology scissor sharpener who may be willing to help. You can call your local beauty wholesale store or by doing a quick search on google. The sharpener can help try to sharpen and add texture to your dull tweezers, but also can they can help realign misshapen tweezers. Every place in California is different. Sadly, sometimes the service can cost more than buying a new pair of tweezers.  Ask for quotes and inquiries upfront. 

(This would be a great new business model for someone in the lash industry! Creating a successful lash tweezer line with warranties. Similar to Mihaz, Tweezerman, Switzerland, etc.) 

Preventative:

There's on one true suggestion or answer to this problem,
Buy quality. And buy multiples.

In my experience after doing lashes for nearly a decade, sadly once tweezers are damaged they are not salvageable. It's impossible to get them to fully grip, realign, etc. Buying quality tweezers from quality brands is one thing. But making sure to buy multiples is key. This is also important if you plan on doing clients back to back, to allow enough time for tweezers to be sanitized and sterilized in between clients. 

My personal recommendation: 
Stay away from thin nosed/based tweezers. Some volume tweezers that offer thin bases, or appear to be very sharp, are indeed. However, they are also VERY fragile since the metal is stretched so thinly. If you accidentally drop them, they can easily become your next trashed victims. Buying tweezers made of better quality metal and not stretched so thin, stand a little bit better chance. 

Until the lash industry comes around to offer more, we are left to the Stone Age tactics. 😂

Thursday, December 9, 2021

A lash techs necessities: Vol. 1, TAPE


One of the ever lasting never, ending hunts for lash technicians is to find the perfect tape (gel pads too, but we'll save that for the next post.). However, not all tape is for everyone. No client is a one-size-fits-all. Part of this is due to  different skin types, if a client is wearing spf, moisturizer, cosmetics, allergies, etc. With this being said it is always best to have an arsenal of different tapes. By having a variety,  you'll be able to find a tape that is the most comfortable and suitable, tailored for each client. 


Paper Tape

Paper Tape:
Hypoallergenic. Breathable. Flexible. The main tape I carry and use on a majority of my clientele. Though it's easy and non invasive, I find that paper tape lacks the stick factor. This can be difficult to work with if clients have oily skin, The thinnest tape available too. The most universal for every client. Another pet peeve of mine with paper tape is that some brands can have a textured surface. Causing lash (mascara) wands to get entwined with the tape. It's not as severe as cloth or fabric tape, but still annoying. 



"Blue Tape":
Sensitive Blue Tape
Blue tape comes in two separate kinds, "strong hold for sensitive skin" and "for sensitive skin." Confusing, I know. STAY AWAY from the strong hold. Sadly, the tape and packaging are exactly the same, except one states, "strong hold." Learn from my mistakes, I made this mistake recently. Don't do it. 
Blue tape is wonderful because it's flexible, great for fragile skin. However, this is not ideal for dry skin or anyone that has an allergy to rubber or latex, as both are in the ingredients of this tape (not hypoallergenic.). The tape is a little more plush, where it may not need to be used with gel eye pads (which is lovely!) However, being thicker may not be ideal for every client. It's has a great stick factor, not as much fuss with sliding around, though it's not always the case. 

AVOID:
"Strong Hold"
Blue Tape
Flexible Clear Tape:
The brand "Nexcare" use to make a hypoallergenic clear tape. Sadly, most of the clear tapes I find on the market now, are not. Though it has a great hold for really oily clients or clients with heavy/oily make up where gel pads and tape don't stick, this does the trick. However, I don't recommend it to be to close to the eye, ONLY to help keep the pads in place. Sadly, I don't typically carry this tape due not being hypoallergenic.

Cloth & Fabric Tape:
Avoid at all costs. This was meant for first aid, and not as much eyelash extension services. Sometimes the Cloth and fabric can contain a textured surface, which the lash (mascara) wands do not like. 

Tape Holders/Storage
As weird as this may sound, even having your tape stored in the proper way can make alllllllll the difference. Helping preserve your tape will help continue it's "stick" factor, away from humidity, lint, etc. In California, The board of barbering and cosmetology requires that all products are stored and labeled in a air tight container. I find this to be the gold standard for products. A few lash brands offer multi storage, which is ideal (though most don't have a "seal.") Some tape brands offer a roll with teeth (similar to how scotch tape is sold.) This makes it easier and more efficient to cut tape off into sections. However, making sure it is properly stored is key. 


LivBay Tape Dispenser
Tape WON'T Stick? 

A few things can be factors of why your tape isn't sticking.
1) The tape itself is faulty. Manufacturers defect, or not the proper tape to use on a client. You can always try another tape, or have a back up roll. 
2) Cosmetics. Your client may have make up on, making your tape not stick properly. Try removing some of the make up in your work zone first before applying tape again.
3) Moisturizer or SPF. Same as cosmetics, too much moisturizer or spf can leave a clients skin too moisturizers or oily. 
4) Humidity. Sometimes, even the humidity can play a factor as to why your tape isn't sticking. It may be to humid. If this is the case, look into a good storage space for your tape and a dehumidifier. 

5) Storage. Where do you store your tape? Is it too close to a sink? humidifier? lash bath products, moisture, etc? Try an air tight or sealed container to seal your tape. 
6.) It may not be the tape, but the gel pad (under eye gel pad/ eye pads.) The eye pads may repel the tape or have a slick surface, or they are too moisturizing for the tape to stick.
7.) Client has too oily skin. Try and use a soft toner to remove any excessive oil before placing tape down.

Tape WON'T UN-stick?

This has happened to me only once. I had made the mistake of buying the stronghold blue tape vs. the sensitive. My clients skin was incredibly dry. It took me 20 minutes to remove! 😳🤯 If your tape won't unstick, it can be because of three reasons. 
1.) Tape is faulty 
2.) Not using the correct tape (for that client.)
3.) Your clients skin is dry.

The best way to unstick is to get a wet or damp cotton ball or q tip and slowly and gently rub in-between the skin and the tape to help soften to lift and remove. Do NOT use any oils as you do not want oils to contact the extensions as most/ if not all adhesives are not oil friendly. 


Finding the right tape while catering to each client will always be a juggle. When all else fails, paper tape will always be your friend. The reason why techs haven't branched too far away from paper tape, is because "when the wheel isn't broken, it doesn't need to be fixed." 

Stay tuned for the next posting:
A lash techs necessities: Vol. 2, Eyepads. 

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Saturday, December 4, 2021

Pros and Cons of Lash, Brow tinting and Lash Perms, Lash Lifts about to be legal in California in 2022

 I was shopping at my local beauty supply when I overheard the conversation that Bill SB 803 was passed. and to be honest, I was PISSED. As a licensed cosmetologist for nearly ten years, California was once one of the hardest cosmetology courses and license testing in the country. Back then, cosmetology courses were 1600 hours, the cosmetology test was a one to two hours written test and four to five hour practical. The practical test you had to supply a model, and it had some things on the test such as finger waves, a 1920's thermal contraption, etc. The only state that was more difficult was Washington (2400 hour program.) 

In 2012, the board eliminated bringing a model to the practical test. Instead just a doll head was needed. The practical was shortened to only 2-3 hours, and the practical was only 1 hour. 

Starting in 2022, the entire cosmetology course will only be 1000 hours. 

Even more concerning, the practical test will completely be eliminated. Only the written will be needed. 

The changes follow other states that have also eased license requirements for cosmetology students. Pennsylvania eliminated its hands on practical back in 2014, and Texas reduced it's hours to 1000 in 2019. 

The Bill offers some benefits for cosmetologists that only want to offer cutting and hair color. However, I find this to be both wonderful and horrific news.

The pros: 

Lash Lifts/Lash Perms become Legal (They have been illegal due to ammonia, though most technicians and licensed professionals have continued to offer these services.)

Lash Tinting/Brow Tinting become legal. (All tinting products for lashes and brows have been banned in California. If state board found tinting products in your business, they would fine you.) 

For new lash technicians looking to obtain a cosmetology license, now is the time.

The cons:

Lash lifts/lash perms, Lash tinting and brow tinting will also be legal for estheticians to offer. I find this incredibly upsetting. Estheticians are not educated in tinting products, chemicals and the science as cosmetologists are. 

It will be virtually toooooooo easy to obtain a cosmetology license. So much in fact that the practical will be eliminated. No one will have to show that they know how to handle chemicals, color, cutting, scissors, razors, disinfectant, etc. Reminds me of the differences of book smarts vs. street smarts. There should always be a happy balance. The practical and written offered this balance. Eliminating will, I believe, is a direct reaction from covid lockdowns, the state being so short staffed, and following other states. 

Eyelash extensions are still not part of the educators, or cosmetology/ esthetician student academic programs or part of testing through the board. Though, in order to offer eyelash extension services in the state, one must be a licensed esthetician or cosmetologist.

I feel the state board has offered a few benefits, but what is coming is a giant step backwards. And another step is missing to regulating academics, testing, and education of eyelash extension services. 


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