Eyelash Extension Techs & Tools: Sterilization & Disinfection

 I hate that I am even talking about this.

But I hate the state government for not regulating this service even more.

If you haven't read my post," Eyelash Extension Licensing & Certification Regulations, by State
, than I would recommend reading that posting before reading this article.
But to sum it up, eyelash extension services and technicians are NOT regulated in every state in the USA. Even worse, some of the states that do regulate the service say you must be a licensed esthetician or cosmetologist, but not certified. Nor do beauty schools in those states train for the service. Meaning in some unregulated (and some regulated states) some techs may not be fully "qualified" to do lash extensions. Though I must be licensed in California, for example, I could very easily have no training in lash extensions but could offer them as a service. (as of 2021)

This is disturbing considering that this is the health, safety, sanitation, and your EYES that we are talking about. This goes for every tech and client. This also includes eyelash extension training courses. Training courses can be taught by someone who is not licensed, though each state varies. Certification is not the same as licensed, and because licensing does not exist, people have made up certification programs, and are making a bad name for lash extensions techs and the service. In Texas, only licensed estheticians, cosmetologists or techs with a specialty license can offer eyelash extensions. Texas really sets the golden standard for the rest of the country. (Thanks to Sophy at Nova Lash.) 

SO with all of that being said, 
I recently got ask by a client about "what is it difference between techs who are licensed vs those who are not? "

My answer? 
Because I worked my butt off in beauty school, became a licensed cosmetologists and learned about diseases, health, safety, sanitation, disinfection, sterilization, and more. 
That other tech that is not licensed (only certified) MIGHT have had a brief 5 minute conversation touching on health, safety, or sanitation at a lash extension training or class. So YES, there is a MASSIVE difference. 

I guarantee any tech that is not licensed will NOT sanitize or disinfect properly. Or know the difference between the two. 
 It's terrifying considering that the state hasn't gotten on board with regulating this service yet, but it's only a matter of time, especially since sanitizing and disinfection are at stake.  

I had another client tell me she had a small case of pink eye in one eye only, but it had since cleared up. Now, if she was directing it as if it we're my fault, it wouldn't be possible, because BOTH eyes would have it, if my hands, my tools, supplies, or sanitary area was infected. But it wasn't. Most women that get lash extensions and pull, touch, poke, etc. at them, the more they do it, the more they do this, the easier it is for them to get an eye infection of some sort. Especially after not washing hands, or playing with there lashes while not paying attention.

She had no lingering signs, so we proceeded with the service.
However, if she did have signs, I would have cancelled the service and rescheduled her.

I am not sure only certified and unlicensed techs would do the same or know to identify the issue.

 Regardless, after every service I disinfect all of my tools, tweezers, (back in the day: jade/crystals), and scissors for at least 10-15 minutes. Once I pull them out, rinse and dry all of my tools, I put them in a dry air sterilizer. I've actually resorted to sterilizing my tools with a pan of boiling water on a stove once. Took a thousand times longer, but sometimes you have to do, what you have to do.
  From Duke University & Medical Center, there article found here:
http://vetmed.duhs.duke.edu/GuidelinesforSterilization.html
explains the differences between the two.

Sterilization kills all viable microorganisms.

Disinfection only reduces the number of viable microorganisms.

Even though this is one of the cheapest, its a start.

Sterilization: 
In a dry air sterilizer, it can reach up to 480-500 degrees. Tweezers and tools go in for 20-30 seconds, maybe once or twice, before being pulled out.
There are also dry air sterilizer compressors that are similar. 
 The worst case scenario, if get a pan of water on a stove on hot. Place the tools in, and let the water boil with the tools for 12-15-20 minutes depending on them temp. Than place on a towel to cool.

The bare minimum.

Disinfection:
Disinfection solutions come usually in a blue color. These solutions can come in a rust free or non formulations, and are a hospital grade disinfectant, that is also useful for nail technicians, cosmetologists, estheticians, etc. You place your tools (cleaned of debris or smudge) in the disinfectant and let it sit completely submerged for at least 10 minutes after 10 minutes, remove all tools, rinse, and dry sufficiently. Be careful for the normal disinfectant solutions, they can rust your tweezers, and even the non rusting solutions. The longer you leave the tools in, the longer the tools may rust. If your tools are poor quality, they may rust faster.

All clean tools should than be placed in a sealed container.

My only problem, is that both of these processes should be done. First disinfection, followed by sterilization.

Most licensed techs know to do both, or at minimum that state board requires at least one. 
However techs that are not licensed (only certified) may not be doing either of these. And if they are doing disinfection, are they doing it correctly? And since state board does not regulate lash extension services in some states, it's a free-for-all. :(

I question all lash boutiques not ran by licensed estheticians or cosmetologists or that have unlicensed techs,  because a local competitor to us (and will be UN-named), disinfects there mascara wands and does not sterilize there tweezers.
Mascara wands are DISPOSABLE. They should never be re-used! The porous fibers in the "brush" can be a breeding ground for bacteria. Even through disinfection, since sterilization wouldn't be possible,  it wouldn't work, and according to California State Board Rules and Regulations is against the law.

So before going to just anyone, I'd suggest that clients and consumers do there homework.

And for perspective or current lash technicians, do your homework, and offer your clients the up-most quality, cleanliness,and safety. 

 Or better yet, follow Texas State Law on Lash Extension Technician License Laws

http://www.tdlr.texas.gov/cosmet/cosmetlaw.htm

Have more questions? Leave us a comment or email us me at suitelash@gmail.com

or leave a comment :). 

xo Holly

TIP: Eyelash Extensions VS. Hairdryer (Blowdryer)

Synthetic + Heat

= 

Never a good situation.

 

Sounds like a basic equation that most people either had experience with this or have heard horror stories. Like leaving plastic wrap on food in the microwave that wasn't microwave safe, only to discover your food is no longer edible and now a messy microwave. Or a girl that got synthetic hair extensions and tried to curl them, only for them to melt and become a mess. 

We'll this is a small note about synthetic or "semi-mink" eyelash extensions vs. heat. So, 

 Here's a tip of the day for all of our clients, techs, and readers!

A client came in this week wondering why her lashes we're losing there curl (which we're C curls) and bending/curling the opposite direction at the tips. C curl lashes hold there height and curl, but these lashes looked like a mixture between B curls and J curls. B curls are the whispy "natural curl" and J curls are natural curl with no hardly and curl and supplies no height. There is no way B's or J's snuck into a C curl tray, so we we're a bit puzzled. 

the differences between J, B, and C curl

 The lashes she got we're "semi-mink"(synthetic), which should always hold there shape and curl. Some lashes can "kink" at the tips if too much pressure is applied while grabbing each lash with tweezers, or by fast motions. But the "kink" was going in the opposite direction, which made no sense.

What could have possibly caused her lashes to do this?
A blow dryer (hairdryer)! 
 
 Right as I was about to ask google for help, I realized she had bangs pinned back. I asked her if she had bangs, and she replied "yes". 
Than I asked her if she uses a blow dryer (hair dryer) on her bangs with heat, she also replied with a,"yes." I than asked her, do you round brush or brush your bangs and at the same time have the face of the blow dryer pointing down? She said yes again. 

I realized right then, that each time shes dried her bangs and her hair that framed her face, the heat of the dryer got to the lashes, since the contact was so close. Each time she used the dryer, the lashes would warp, making them lose there curl or losing there curl a little each time she had heat around, making them appear as B and J curls. 

So the lesson today is synthetic (semi-mink) and heat 

DON'T mix. 

So, for clients who use a blow dryer/hair dryer, especially those who have hair/fringe that frames the face or bangs, make sure your blow dryer is used going away from the face and no where near the eyelashes. OR make sure your dryer is on the cold or low settings.  

If you are a client that will not give up a heated dryer, either use the dryer away from the lashes/face or instead of semi-mink lashes, ask us about our mink lashes! 
Since mink lashes are a real hair follicle from minks, they are cured to hold there color and curl, and have no effect from heat. Ask us more at urbanlashspa@gmail.com


Courtesy of our lash tech Andreya
AndreyaatUrbanLashSpa: instagram

5 Eyelash Extension Tools Techs and Clients should stay away from

 For most clients, they are left in the dark of how lash techs perform and apply lash extensions. Mostly because they're eyes are shut. Most techs don't even know how techs set up, let alone, what tools they use. However, if you are a client, don't be shy! Ask your lash tech about the process and to walk you step by step. Its always good to ask questions! Knowledge is power. 

As for techs, I've done my research, and seen some crazy tools and concepts that lash techs have created. Some are great! Other....not so much. Lash techs want to find the easiest, most clean/sanitary, and the absolute fastest way to do lash extensions. SO when some of these "inventions" are presented, they seem like the most ingenious idea! However, looks are deceiving. Usually if it sounds or looks to good to be true, it probably is. In theory it may work, but in reality it can be disastrous.

So I've made a list of 5 lash tools lash techs should stay away from. 

Glue & Lash Rings

The first time I saw both lash and glue rings, my first thought was, "This is amazing." But than when I began to think about it, and mimic what it would be like to work with rings, I realized it would be much more difficult. First of all, look at the height of the ring for the lashes! Not to mention the curve is a little much. You'd have to tilt your hand to get the pesky corners, but if you have a glue ring on, such as this model, you could potentially tilt the adhesive to drip on clients. I work with my hands slightly tilted (which I believe most lash techs do.) Or you could keep that hand completely flat the entire time, and your other hand would have to reach around for a lash each time, which could be annoying. That can't be comfortable either way. My last issue with lash rings is that you can only fit 3 sizes (sometimes 4) lashes on each ring. What if you needed more than 3 sizes, or you we're using a mixture of different curls as well? You'd need an awful lot of rings....and fingers. Even though these are disposable, there are a few brands that make them as a permanent tool. Instead of being wasteful, just stick with a tial, tray, or container. On paper this idea seemed amazing, but in reality it failed. Which brings me to....

Adhesive (Glue) Rings
One false move of the hands, an accident and natural reaction such as dropping your tweezers and you make a fast and sudden movement to grab them, but glue drips out and onto a client, especially working so close to the face (especially eyes!), I am sure glue will end up on the clients face, hair, clothes, or all of the above.
And with the hands, depending on how someone is using there tweezers (I work easier with my hands somewhat tilted) is a recipe for disaster. Similar to lash rings, the glue rings we're also a great idea "on paper." (Hypothetically speaking.)  
Working so close to the face and eyes, and your hands constantly in that area, can not only be a hazard for adhesive if it spills, drops, etc. but can also be fume-tastic for your client. The fumes can have a "strong" type of fume that is odorless. If eyes are opened before the adhesive dries, it can feel similar to a burning sensation when you chop an onion. Between both client and tech, and even WITH good circulation of air, the adhesive should be away from the clients face, off the the face (headband), away from the client pillow, etc. Or else your client and tech will experience feeling "cleared out." My biggest pet peeve about the glue rings is the adhesive consistency. Lash Extension adhesives needs to remain cool, in order to remain fresh as possible. Because of this, most techs put the adhesive on jade or crystal stones to help keep the adhesives temperature down, so with appointment times ranging from 30 minutes to an hour or more, the adhesive will never go bad. However, techs that use the adhesive ring will have more problems. Because of the body head from your hand, this makes the adhesive settle faster, and making the adhesive harder to work with, and not being able to maintain a fresh bond. Which can than jeopardize all the work a tech has done, or jeopardize the lash life or service consistency for clients. Even though these are disposable, i would have bough 4-5 crystal or jade stones, a few adhesive stickers, and called it a day. It would be much cheaper and less wasteful, and better all around!

My advice.......... Just use jade or crystal stones with adhesive stickers. It will change your life. 

Client Headbands
Even one cough or sneeze could end this lash party. The lash & adhesive client band or headbands are meant to make the workplace "tighter", so techs can work faster. Again, client bands to get their hair back, especially bangs is great for fans and circulation. HOWEVER, putting lashes AND adhesive on the headband as a work platform, so close to the face, eyes, hair clothes, etc. just seems like a horrible as the lash and glue rings. The differences would be not having to tilt your hands and having the adhesive even closer. Not to mention that the fumes are more potent since the adhesive is practically under there nose, and constant. Having lashes flick or fly, and ending up all over a clients face, hair or clothes would also be a "less than ideal" situation. The adhesive is also not staying cool, and is close to the body, which would absorb heat. jeopardizing the bonds and lash adhesive consistency. The trays are "disposable" and I am sure are not cheap. And no there's no way to clean or sterilize them properly. And as a reminder, you'd better invest in a ton of client headbands and a ton of laundry detergent to wash those suckers. I find that this just ends up costing more in the end. 

Nano-Misters

Back in 2014, essentially these are used to help cure freshly applied lash extensions. Weird, I know. I 've always been told "do not apply water or steam to lashes in the first 24 hours of application." And here we are doing somewhat exactly that. Bizarre, I know. .The ingredient cyanoacrylate (in most higher end adhesives) cure faster with a decent amount of water/humidity. Even though clients eyes may be closed, I am sure techs announce that they will use this on their client, or maybe not because it's gentle anyway. Some clients can feel it and others don't. 
Misters are one of the newest tools in lash extensions, and most lash salons and boutiques have jumped on the lash mister bandwagon. However, after digging up a little more information scientifically and from products, lash techs, etc. I found that SOME misters are anything but. Some offer more of a spritz effect where the better misters are fine molecules to act as humidity. Make sure your tech has a good nano mister or neubulizer. 

Heater (or Non-Heated) Eyelash Extension Curlers 
I'll start with the basic lash curler every girl has most likely owned or at least used once in there life. I tell all clients NO. You have to stay away from these. Lash curlers are meant to help curl the lashes, usually applied after mascara, that helps gift lift and volume to the natural lashes. Lash curlers  should NEVER be used on eyelash extensions. Why? Because pressing on lash extensions bonded to natural lashes can not only break or tarnish bonds, but also can potentially pull or tug on natural lashes and extensions, which could cause gaps or pre mature lash shedding. Lash curlers are not necessary, since lash extensions are already sized and curled (both semi mink and mink - even silk or mixtures too.) Depending on where techs are getting there product, lash vendors can make there lashes cheaply, that are mis-sized, mis-curled, or dont hold there color or curl. Check with your vendors and make sure to check in with clients on how they like there lashes and if they have any problems. If clients are using lash curlers, maybe it's time to upgrade the lash extension curl, so they can have the height/curl. Lash extensions are already set, so attempting to curl set lashes, would be like trying to make water wetter. Ridiculous. Exactly.

Heater lash curlers are similar to normal lash curlers, however have different benefits and appears different.They are similar in the fact that they will curl the lashes and add some height. But since the shape and technique is different, I'll explain why this is just disastrous.

First of all, it's meant to curl your natural lashes. Some tech's use this BEFORE applying lash extensions, which is HORRIBLE. When a clients natural lashes are curled, it's only temporary, so after application of extensions, and with time or a day passes, or after a client washes there face or takes a shower, the lashes will look 1000X different. The extensions will lay differently and may not be the look that you set out to have in the beginning. Even during application of curled or curly lashes, the extensions may not have great bonds compared to the natural lashes before being curled. Unfortunately, clients can not curl there lashes after lash extension application, or while extensions are on. This is especially meant for clients with semi-mink (synthetic)! Some techs use this for clients who's lashes are straight or pointed down, where the lashes touch the tape. Because of the curler, it will help lift the lashes off the tape, so there's no chances of sticking. Another benefit that should be labeled as a precaution, is that the lash curler will help separate and smooth mascaraed lashes. Any woman who has ever worn make up to the gym, or after a night out dancing, knows that mascara plus heat will create a melted off mascaraed mess. Not to mention, if you don't let this curler cool down, you could be burning holes through your make up bag.


Client Chairs (Laz-E Boy Style):
When I first learned how to do lash extensions, the educators used the lash extension chairs, similar to LAZ-E Boy Chairs. Seemed like a genius idea because clients didn't have to lay down, and it seemed easy. But the more I used the chair, the more I realized there was room for error. Clients who have a bad neck or back may hate these chairs. Even if the chair reclines, most of the time, isn't enough in order to work comfortably and efficiently. Thus why clients have to extend there heads back. Clients with constant neck or back problems may stop getting lashes because of this, or may continue to get lashes but ruin there main structure of there body. Don't let them do it, and offer a table (massage table) instead. Another client that may hate the chairs are pregnant clients. Pregnancy clients can also be tricky for tables and chairs. However, with a client on a massage table, I've realized techs should offer a "cheese mat" to help elevate the client slightly, or extra pillows, or even the pregnancy pillow is especially good for this. Clients that are pregnant sitting in a chair for a long period of time at 90 degrees may start to feel cramped or have issues.

My biggest problem with this bottom photo is the fact that the lash places aren't private, so you can be sitting next to a stranger. If you have ever had your eyes closed while getting lashes, have you ever thought...." Hmmmm, I wonder where my purse, car keys, phone, etc is." or "I wonder who just walked in." while trying to relax? Women cling to there belongings and are not able to relax. Imagine if they called a friend to say they couldn't make it to lunch, but instead went to her lash appointment. Let's just say her friend walks in to get lashes and see's her. She wouldn't know until she opened her eyes.

Just No.

I Highly Do NOT recommend any of these products or tools for any technician or for clients to have used on them. 

For any questions, or if you have any questions regarding any other tools, leave us a comment.

Clear vs. Black Adhesives for Eyelash Extensions

Have you ever experienced an allergy to eyelash extension adhesive?
If so, is your body allergic to formaldehyde? If you answered no,
Do you have an allergy to cyanoacrylates? If no again,
Are you allergic to (in other competitor adhesive formulations, rubber, acrylics, etc.) ?
if you answered no again,
Are you allergic to Carbon Black?

What is Carbon Black?

Carbon Black is on of the few ingredients in a majority of eyelash extension adhesives on the market today. This ingredient is essentially a dye, which makes the adhesive "Black."It's needed in the adhesive to help blend the bonds of natural lashes and lash extensions. The bond (adhesive) that combines the two is black, helping to camouflage natural lashes and extensions. It acts as a black coating, to help blend the two together at the same time. Because of this, no eyelash tinting needs to be done, especially for blondes or lighter hair colored clients.

As amazing as the carbon black provides, unfortunately for the lucky few clients, they may have an allergy to this ingredient.
Some clients may have an allergy to eye shadows, eye liners, pigments, or other cosmetics. Mainly because there is Carbon Black present, or particular dyes similar to carbon black. Even though cosmetics are touching the skin and lash extensions are not, clients who are ultra sensitive might still experience some problems.
Even though lash extensions are applied at least 1mm away from the skin, some clients that even by blink or have there eyes closed (while sleeping) will obviously be touching the skin, which can be enough to have sensitivities or allergies both big or small.

What some lash extension technicians, and some clients, is that Carbon Black may be the culprit of lash extension problems, allergies, or sensitivities. Allergic reactions are rare occurrences and are usually the result of incorrect eyelash extension application, ingredients in products/ poor products used (including synthetic, mink, latex, fragrance, formaldehyde, etc.), seasonal allergen or improper at-home care. Clients are advised to remove contact lenses prior to an eyelash extension application.

But FEAR NOT! We have a back up that will be crystal clear.
No, litterally crystal clear. 

Client with Pigmentation disorder: white lashes applied with clear adhesive.

 Clear Eyelash Extension Adhesives do not contain the Carbon Black ingredients!
Which has it's pro's and con's. The bond will be clear, not black.
With Blonde or lighter hair colored clients, this may be a tiny bit more noticeable, however usually the extension is black  both semi mink and mink, which helps camouflage the natural lash color.
A fix to this could be lash tinting or lash tinting with henna (or natural dyes - make sure it contains no carbon black or other chemicals.) This can help conceal natural lash colors with lash extension color since the bond (adhesive) will be clear.
However, no black bonds is a small price to pay, when you can still have extensions.
Just because lash extension adhesive is clear, it still has the same lash life as adhesives with carbon black.

This is also great for colored lashes, to give that extra pop of color, that is full through the entire lash. (Usually applied with black adhesive can make the colored lashes appear as "two-tone." That way you only get 1/2 the lash of color, since the other 1/2 is black. With clear adhesive, you get all the color! As the picture above, even clients with pigmentation loss and medical issues will have benefits with clear adhesive. My client, who had pigmentation loss on parts of her skin, the corner of her eyebrow, and a majority of her right eye, wanted to not camouflage but accentuate her natural beauty. She is a gorgeous woman, even with one eye with white lashes and one with black!

This opened tons of new questions and has opened new doors for sensitive, allergy, and color clients!
 This may be the answer for clients to avoid a particular irritant or allergy.

Say Goodbye to Carbon Black: Irritation and Allergies!
Ask us about our Crystal Clear Adhesive at (949) 305-5593

Benefits of Silk & Satin Linens for Eyelash Extensions

First of all, Happy December, 

or in other words it's the Holiday Season! 

We're preparing for a busy month at the shop, and stocking up on lashes, candles, products, and other goodies. One of our newest features, a new brand that we are excited to carry,

we introduce you to,
Morning Glamour Satin Pillow Cases.

How are these beneficial to eyelash extensions, you ask?
Not only are they beneficial for lash extensions, but for your hair, and skin! 
Morning Glamour Pillow Cases Benefits are as follows:

• Eyelash Extensions: When sleeping on cotton pillow cases, lash extensions can get caught, snagged, pulled, and twisted, which can cause lash damage, pre-lash shedding, gaps (bald spots) or twisted lashes. With Satin or Silk pillow cases being tightly woven fabric, your lashes will have no friction and never get stuck, snagged, or twisted. Because of this, your also extending the lash life of your lashes and bonds.
• Hair: Beauty sleep takes on new meaning with Morning Glamour's wrinkle-preventing, gentle-on-hair satin pillowcases
•  Skin & Hair: Studies have shown that sleeping on a satin pillowcase can reduce wrinkles and help prevent hair loss and breakage. This is especially important because those "sleep wrinkles" that develop overnight might become permanent as we age. Yikes!
•  Hair:  Friction between your hair and a cotton pillowcase can cause hair damage and breakage (see: bed head). When you eliminate friction by sleeping on a smooth satin pillowcase, you eliminate that morning frizz and keep your locks healthy. No more static-hair! (Yay!)

 From there Website: https://www.morningglamour.com/

"Morning Glamour LLC is owned and operated by Kristen Lantz and Hector Loza.

Morning Glamour was born in 2011, when Kristen and her sister had an epiphany after switching to satin pillowcases. They realized that satin offers a surprising amount of beauty benefits, from tame morning hair to fewer wrinkles. The difference was so palpable, they realized that they were getting real "beauty sleep." It was then that they determined that satin pillowcases should be sold in beauty aisles everywhere. Thus came Morning Glamour, the company that redefines how you rest."

They have also been featured by the American Cancer Society.

"Satin pillowcases are great for cancer survivors who desire relief from chemotherapy symptoms such as hair loss, dry skin conditions and discomfort. Although satin pillowcases won't completely stop hair tug and hair loss, The American Cancer Society recommends sleeping on satin pillowcases to help with chemotherapy side effects. You can learn more about it at: http://www.cancer.org/"

They offer multiple colors and patterns: Such as Black, Ivory, Silver, Gray, Blue/Turquoise, Pink, Zebra, Cheetah, Floral, and other colors & patterns during seasonal times of the year.
They also offer a single pack, double pack, single travel pack, and king size!
A perfect gift less that $26.00.

We carry exclusive colors, other colors and patterns available upon special order requests.
 At (949) 305-5593 or email us at UrbanLashSpa@gmail.com
Or to buy online visit https://www.morningglamour.com/

Cry Baby Mascara: Review

 From Cry Baby Mascara's Website:

"Tints fade. Extensions fall out. Strip Lashes aren’t moisture-proof. And they’re often expensive and laborious to apply. If your salon or spa could offer a durable, longer-lasting, more affordable service to your clients, why wouldn’t you?

Cry Baby Semi-Permanent Mascara is a procedure that curls and coats lashes with our proprietary lash coating. This coating adds volume, length, curl and color to lashes, is 100% waterproof/ smear-proof and lasts two weeks, often longer. It’s ideal for active lifestyles as well as special events like weddings and vacations. Better still, it’s professionally applied by your technicians and can be offered at a fraction of the cost of extensions."

After reading about this service and product, the coolest part, is that it MUST be applied by a LICENSED ESTHETICIAN or COSMETOLOGIST.
Takes about 30 minutes to apply, and is simple, with long lasting effects. It's not going to give your much curl, but for my avid mascara wearers, this may be a good fit! 

Another great thing, They have a long list of FAQ! And there training is selective and extensive. Heres are some of the topics they cover....

How long will CryBaby Mascara last? With proper care, CryBaby Mascara will last 2 weeks or longer. For one-time special occasions, CryBaby will slowly wear off the natural lash over a 2 to 3 week period. If you want to maintain the look, retouches are recommended every 10-14 days. How thick will CryBaby Mascara make lashes? Typically CryBaby Mascara will thicken natural lashes 30 to 50%. It is designed to make lashes thicker, fuller, and longer like mascara, but it is also water-proof, smear-proof and lasts much longer. How long will CryBaby Mascara make lashes? On average, CryBaby Mascara can make lashes look 20% to 50% longer. How is CryBaby Mascara maintained? Although some people get CryBaby Mascara for a special occasion or vacation, most love the look so much that they chose to maintain it. Reapplication on a two week basis keeps the lashes looking fresh and new. How soon before an event should CryBaby Mascara be applied? CryBaby Mascara can be applied the day of a special event; however, we suggest having it applied 4 hours prior. This ensures accurate curing time for the mascara and the freshest possible look for the lashes. Can regular Mascara be used over CryBaby Mascara? Regular mascara will not need to be used with CryBaby Mascara. As CryBaby wears off, washable mascara can be worn. Petroleum based mascaras can break down CryBaby and shorten its life. Mascara used with CryBaby should be water-washable; although after several applications over CryBaby, it can get thick, clumpy and dull. CryBaby Nutritional Volume Mascara is the best bet. Can regular cleanser be used to remove make up? Because cleansers are usually very emollient, we don’t recommend them for the eyelashes. Instead we recommend an oil free makeup remover. Keeping eyes clean is essential. Face and eye area should be washed and cleaned daily. Eye creams and moisturizers for the skin are fine, but keep them off lashes. Can CryBaby Mascara pull natural eyelashes off? No. Eyelashes should not be picked, pulled, or rubbed. Gently blot them dry after a shower or swim. An eyelash may come off if treated roughly. Treat lashes with respect and be gentle with them. The gentler CryBaby Mascara is treated, the longer it will last. If picking or pulling is a problem for a client, we do not recommend CryBaby Mascara. How will sleeping affect CryBaby lashes? CryBaby is very flexible, so if lashes get misshapen during sleep, warm water or a shower will bounce them back into shape. Sleeping with a pillow or blanket over the head may affect the longevity of CryBaby Mascara. Side sleepers may notice that the eye on the side they sleep on wears a little more than the other side.  Here are some examples of  Before and Afters thats are pretty impressive.    My only set back with this product is that the eyelashes, even though you gain longer, thicker, fuller lashes, may not 1) curl or 2) be as long as you are wanting to go (especially for my more dramatic clients.) However for my avid mascara wearers, or for clients who have long and great lashes naturally, or for clients who don't want to put on mascara everyday, this is a great solution.  Unfortunately, when I wrote this review it was back in 2014. It is now 2021 doing an update, and I am not sure if the company exists any longer. :( The website seems to be down/nonexistent.)

DUO & Ardell Lash Adhesive Warning

Ardell

I remember I was in 6th grade when my parent's allowed me to start wearing a bit of make up. I was pretty heavy with the foundation, because I had difficult acne and oily skin. Because I was self consciousness about my skin I started to feel the same with my lashes. I am naturally blond, so they look invisible. They don't do me any justice. My lashes are short, thin, point straight down, and refuse to curl. It was in 8th grade when I was introduced to strip lashes by my older sister.
My sister, who was a sophomore in college began to wear them all the time, but those lashes completed everything that I was looking for. She looked fabulous. And I wanted that.
Of course my parents we're furious, because at that time I loved the long, big, barbie-fake looking lashes. However I imagine it was my age.😂 

 But soon, lashes became a habit I was never able to kick.

Fast forward to 9 years later, I became a licensed cosmetologist, another 2 years later I had become a certified lash extension technician. Here I am another 11-12 years later, and I am STILL fixated on lashes. The technologies, methods, education, and products/ingredients continue to improve in the lash world. And now, my parent's aren't so furious with my decision to wear lashes when I was younger, since they've seen to pay themselves off ;).

However, it wasn't until I was talking with one of my clients, who is also a licensed cosmetologist, about strip lashes and clusters while comparing them to lash extensions. We got to talking about ingredients in certain products that drives us NUTS. But than she dropped a bombshell on me.

I feel like such an idiot for not knowing, but I had NEVER looked, nor did I ever imagine that ingredient would be in there. However,

Ardell and DUO, the 2 MOST COMMON and popular false, strip lashes, and cluster lash adhesives, contain Formaldehyde.

Three words : Cancer Hazard Material

DUO (CLEAR) Adhesive Ingredients:
Aqua (Water, Eau), Rubber Latex, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate,Ammonium Hydroxide, Parfum (Fragrance), Coumarin, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool,Formaldehyde. May Contain: CI 77499 (Iron Oxides).

ARDELL (CLEAR) Adhesive Ingredients:
Water (Aqua), Rubber Latex, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Dodecylbenesulfonate, Ammonium Hydroxide, fragrance (parfum), Coumarin, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool, Formaldehyde, Iron Oxides (CI 77499).

Even though there is a small amount in the adhesives, what bothers me is knowing I have worn strip lashes for a lengthy periods of time, so my body has been absorbing each day I wear that damn adhesive.
But it got me thinking more negative thoughts. I know the adhesive is somewhat "flexible and soft", but can still pull out your natural lashes with the falsies, thus why it is temporary and can only last one day/a few hours..... I know some clients say the adhesive can hold up for DAYS, but if you aren't cleaning your eyes for more than 1-2 days, I am sorry, but that's gross, not to mention you could easily start to harbor discharge from the eye, bacteria, etc. And can lead to blepharitis, or other eye infections. 

NOTE: NO FALSE LASHES Such as strip lashes or cluster "individuals" lashes should NEVER be applied with eyelash extensions or medical grade adhesives. Or any other adhesives for that matter. 

I know Formaldehyde is found in a lot of things that people are surrounded with. We can't escape the ingredient, but if Brazilian Blowout could re-formulate there products with OUT any formaldehyde or any "chemical reaction" that would create formaldehyde, than surely DUO or ARDELL could jump on that band wagon.
There are a few adhesives that do not have the harsh ingredient inside, but the most common to find these days at any CVS, Walgreens, Sephora, Ulta, even MAC Cosmetics, are one of the two, Ardell or Duo.

Formaldehyde is a nasty substance, so do yourself, your eyes, and health a favor, and check for formaldehyde.

RESOURCES:
http://www.ulta.com/ulta/browse/productDetail.jsp?productId=prod1031050
 http://www.sephora.com/eyelash-adhesive-P266812

Eyelash Extensions Products: MADE IN ?

About a year ago, I had been watching a TV program with my family, about our economy in the USA. These producers on the TV show had gone door to door in a neighborhood, betting the homeowners that 50% or more of all the items in there homes we're not made in the USA. If the items we're not made in the USA, these items we're to be placed on there lawns, and items that we're made in the USA would stay in there homes. They bet the homeowners $100,000.00.
Within 20 minutes, half the house was on the lawn, and the homeowners lost the bet.

Sadly to say, people, especially consumers, are not conscientious about where they purchase products from. Ever look at the back of a can to see "Made in China"? or the back of the box of of a DVD that said "Made in Taiwan"? Just because these items are sold in walmart, target, forever 21, online, or other places, doesn't mean that there products are made in the USA. Sure, labor is cheaper, and cost is low in other countries, thus why most big corporations seek elsewhere out of the US to have items made and manufactured in other countries. Sadly, this has also been hurting our economy greatly as well. But just because cheaper labor or cost, does NOT mean these products or the ingredients they use are good quality/good products, nor are some approved or regulated by the FDA, etc.

Unfortunately, the eyelash extension industry, including lash boutiques, salons, and spas fall to this problem. I've seen too many of our competitors offer (excuse my language, but) piece-of-china-crap lash products and adhesives.

Most lash technicians, some licensed and mostly certified, either buy products from wholesalers or directly from the source, who sell there lash products from overseas, in mostly Asian countries, such as China, Japan, Taiwan, Korea, etc.  Even by purchasing product from wholesalers in the USA, DOES NOT mean these products are made nor manufactured in the USA. Because of this, most of these products, ESPECIALLY the adhesives, contains DANGEROUS chemicals, such as formaldehyde and acrylics. One of the leading problems in allergic reactions.
Because of this, most lash extension places cannot guarantee MINK lashes are 100% real.
This also includes that these countries cannot guarantee that MINK lashes are animal testing and cruelty free. Most distributors form these countries will tell you, "There's no animal cruelty", is probably lying. Even some EUROPEAN COUNTRIES have this major issue. Here's Sweden as an example,

http://www.peta.org/features/shocking-look-inside-swedish-fur-farms/

Sweden Fur Farms :(

Wonder where we've heard this before?

*Whale Wars* (on animal planet)

*The Cove* (on Vimeo and on DVD)

So what makes you think that these countries would be any different with Minks?

The main reason why some of these lash technicians purchase product from other countries directly or through wholesalers, can be of 2 reasons.

1) Cheaper prices

2) Or because they are only "certified" technicians.

Most reputable lash companies, only sell to licensed estheticians and cosmetologists who are also certified. This is a follow up response from Texas (Who is the only state to regulate eyelash extension services.) Because of this, most reputable brands will not sell nor teach to only "certified" technicians. 

The big problem, that I see from our local competitors, is that they sell China crap, or re-label these china-crap products as there own and sell them. 

Example, adhesives

 Why do these ALL look SO familiar?

Just because you peeled off a label, and replaced it with yours, does not mean it will change the products origins or ingredients.

It's like dressing up a pig with lipstick, and trying to say its Marilyn Monroe. 

The most important thing I cannot stress to clients and techs enough is to do your homework, or to offer quality products. Clients, don't get stuck with a tech who doesn't know where there product is from. Chances are, they are using poor quality products, or products that contain dangerous chemicals. Lash techs, don't use crappy-china-crap products! Spend the little extra on good, and higher quality products made in the USA. Compared to the USA, some European (UK) lines are good quality, and most UK countries have district laws of ingredients in haircare, skincare, cosmetics, and etc. But beware of animal cruelty/testing in these areas.

With all of this being said, for both CLIENTS and LASH TECHNICIANS,

try and make a concious effort to aim for lash products that are,

MADE IN THE USA
(Free of formaldehyde and acrylics)

Animal Cruelty & Animal Testing FREE

What is Formaldehyde?

Formaldehyde:

Noun:  Simplest aldehyde, chemical formula HCHO. Formaldehyde (37%) in water solution, called formalin, is used as a preservative, an embalming agent, and a disinfectant. Large amounts of formaldehyde are used in the manufacture of various familiar plastics. Bakelite (the first completely synthetic plastic) is the trademark for formaldehyde and phenol polymer, and Formica is the trademark for formaldehyde and urea polymer. The reaction of formaldehyde with proteins (called amino formylation) leads to its use in the tanning industry and for treating various vegetable proteins to render them fibrous.

Formaldehyde is a HUGE problem with the eyelash extension industry. This ingredient is mainly found in most eyelash extensions adhesives, including some sensitive. Formaldehyde is an agent that is used to preserve dead organisms......imagine that on your eyes! That's like using acrylic or acetone on your eyes instead of yours nails! I stumbled upon a blog from a lash tech who was featured on "Good Morning America." She stated,"“formaldehyde based adhesive.” Let’s clarify – A formaldehyde based adhesive is one that was used in the Red Cross trailers that were donated to hurricane Katrina victims, which ended up making them terribly sick. There is a big difference between that and what we use as eyelash technicians for applications. I think we all know that using formaldehyde “based” adhesive for eyelash extensions would be complete taboo; no adhesive we use on people’s eyes should contain formaldehyde as a base. Precisely what I meant when I responded with “adhesives should not contain formaldehyde.” "
We 100% agree. 
She also stated, "cyanoacrylate based adhesive, which CAN omit a barely undetectable amount of formaldehyde into the atmosphere if combined with certain ingredients, or if the adhesive is not properly purified. Personally I believe Sophy Merszei, Founder of Novalash and chemist and molecular biologist, was being straightforward when she explained that adhesives must be properly purified and bottled correctly in order to prevent formaldehyde from forming. Contrary to popular belief, I don’t think she was just trying to sell her adhesive." 

Even though Sophy Merszei had received some criticism, later on, by claiming that adhesives used for eyelash extensions shouldn’t necessarily contain formaldehyde. Is still up for debate. We believe eyelash extension adhesive should be formaldehyde free. 

No Thanks.

Most lash extension adhesives are not medical grade and contain at least a small trace/amount of formaldehyde. From what I've seen in the last 2 years, most local lash boutiques (in Orange County, CA) purchase cheap product, pr product that contains a small amount of Formaldehyde (JB Lashes being on of the vendors) and either re-label, or go through private labeling. When re-labeling, they take off the original label, including the ingredients list. Frustrating, since most techs in orange county don't have a clue of what is in there adhesive. Sad. It's disappointing to have a brand such as JB Lashes, who is so well known and local to the OC, contain such a disgusting ingredient. After speaking to a JB Lash Rep, they had said there is NO formaldehyde in the list, however the product is manufactured in a factory where there is a small trace of formaldehyde.
I decided I would NOT take any chances.

The label is not the original.

If you ask you lash tech which product line they use and they say, "it's our own products", they could be doing private, or re labeling. Ask them about ingredients in the adhesive to verify. If the tech is unsure, or they have purchased from a private label or mystery label, make sure to ask the brand first, before a service.

No Labels. Manufacture in S.K.

 Formaldehyde is a dangerous substance. I believe some clients forget how toxic this ingredient can be, since there are levels of formaldehyde we are surrounded by every day. The toxic substance has been linked to causing cancer and has been the culprit of many irritants and health issues.
Take Brazilian Blowout or Johnson and Johnson "No More Tears" Baby Shampoo. Both phased out or reformulated after high levels of the toxic problem being detected.

Do your body and health a favor, and check for formaldehyde.

Refrences
 http://damage-free.com/real-answers-on-cyanoacrylates-and-the-f-word/
 http://www.novalash.com/
 http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/formaldehyde
 http://www.cancer.gov/cancertopics/factsheet/Risk/formaldehyde
 http://www.cbsnews.com/news/johnson-johnson-to-phase-out-potentially-harmful-chemicals-by-2015/
 http://www.womensvoices.org/avoid-toxic-chemicals/cosmetics-salons/hair-straightening-products-containing-formaldehyde/
 http://professional.jblashes.com/

Glitter Lash Extensions

Since the holidays and Halloween are approaching, I've been getting bombarded with demands for color and glitter lashes.

There are many different types of Glitter Lashes, some better than others. And all come with pros and cons, and different shapes, sizes and lengths. But depending on if your tech is able to access good quality product, may also depend if the glitter lashes are good quality.

So, lets start with the worst...

 Glitter Lashes

Yikes.

This is a great example of bad glitter lashes. Most people will argue that these are not "that bad." However I beg to differ. They are noticeably "clumpy" and are obvious, in the wrong ways. Clumpy glitter lashes can happen in 3 ways.
1) there is too much adhesive
2) there is too much glitter
3) the glitter is thicker (not finely cut)
 With this being said, glitter lashes can be problematic. With excess product, the lashes can seem to be heavier, and harder comb through and de-tangle. If the glitter used is a thicker cut, they can also get into the eye, causing irritation and/or discomfort. Because of the clumpy and heaviness, glitter lashes may only last up to 1-2 weeks.

Most lash distributors offer some sort of glitter lashes, and are unfortunately the clumpy version. The only benefit, is that they come in trays, ready to go. But, another problem, is that they can be stuck together, or when peeling a lash off the tray, the glitter comes off of the lash. My biggest pet-peeve is that the glitter is only coated 1/2- 2/3 of the way down. Meaning only 1/2 to 1/3 of the lash will bond, and not look complete to the root and your bond may not last as long.
More cons than pros.


But fear not! There are GOOD glitter lashes, here are 2 examples.
Mica Powder Glitter Lashes

Much better.

 Mica Powder comes in various colors and is finely ground. Meaning you won't have clumpy looking lashes, nor have access product flake into the eyes. Say goodbye to discomfort or clumpy looking lashes. Have a pop of sparkle, that's classy and soft. They are easy to comb through and detangle, and are lighter weight. The coolest thing about mica powder, is that by making them, you can get creative and make two-toned/ ombre effect lashes or multi colored lashes. My only complaint, is that most mica powder lashes must be made, and made ahead of time. With this being said, this can be irritating, especially if a client asks for a few last second. Make sure to have a variety of a few in different lengths.

Mica powder is a fine granulated glitter/pigment, that is easier to coat each lash, evenly, without giving a clump appearance. Mica is a colorant and is found in most eyeshadow, blushes, lip products, or “translucent” powders, etc. And it is safe. Mica powder can also be added to products, such as nail art, to give a different appearance. These powders can last up to two weeks or more.

Lastly, 
Candied Lashes (Glitter Lashes by Nova Lash)

Nova Lash Launch of Candied Lashes

Candied Lashes we're presented by Nova Lash, are hand-dipped, freeze-dried and crystallized lashes can be worn day or night for a delicate sparkle that lasts up to 2 weeks. These lashes are hand-dipped similar to mica powder. These are a more finely granulated glitter, such as mica powder, and are easier to brush through and comb/detangle.

As much as this sounds dandy, they only come in 10 different colors. Most of the colors avilable are requested colors, but these pots are expensiveeeeee. Since they are similar to mica powder, I would rather buy 40 different shades of colors for $40.00, than 6 pots for $100- 150.00! That's a bit absurd, to charge 6 pots of colors for that much money. As much as a I love Nova lash, they are the only brand of there kind to get away with murderous prices such as these.

Now that you've seen the differences,
CLIENTS: 
Make sure to ask your tech what glitter lashes they use
TECHS: 
Invest time and or money in a good quality glitter lashes.

Refrences:
http://www.makeupgeek.com/forums/topic/looking-for-talc-free-mica-free-paraben-free-bismuth-free-powder/
https://www.novalash.com/catalog/productpages/lashes-candied.html

What are lash extensions made of?

I get asked this question frequently enough, that I figured it would make a good topic on the Blog. :)

What are lash extensions made of?

Well, depending on what your lash tech supplies, it could be a few things, so lets begin.

If the tech is licensed/certified, chances are your going to get good product. If not, or if you tech isn't reputable, chances are your going to get crappy product.

The product I am about to name, is pretty universal to all lash materials that are sold from all companies. SO, lets call this the "lash traffic light" - green light for good materials, yellow light for fair materials, and red light for poor materials. Red light should make you turn the other direction and run.

Green Light: Recommended Product

Mink
Mink Lashes are one of the most popular lashes requested, and the most expensive lash material available on the Market. With a feel for "Hollywood glamor", mink lashes extensions have a pros and cons. Mink lashes are the closest thing you will come to the look and feel of a natural hair follice/lash. The lashes are extremely light weight, giving a longer lash life, and lighter on the natural lashes, helping keep the natural integrity. Due to the natural origins of the mink hairs, lashes may vary in thickness, length and curl per tray/container. Because of this, mink can be annoying. Depending on the vendor you purchase from, lashes can come in different lengths, sizes, curls, and even color! In most cases, the lashes are not 100% real mink. Make sure to buy from a rep who offers mink lashes that are treated (colored and permed). The color and perm guarantees that the lash will hold the color and curl. Another problem, allergies. If your client is allergic to cats or dogs, chances are that they may be allergic to the mink lashes. Make sure to ask these questions during a consultation, and be able to offer a solution (synthetic mink). Another problem? These can easily get kinked or crimped. Do not use tweezers or lash curlers with pressure. Be gentle. The last and biggest problem I have with Mink lashes, Animal Cruelty. Most reputable brands/reps you purchase from who carry mink are animal cruelty free. Make sure to purchase lashes that are animal cruelty free. 

left semi mink - right 100% real mink

Semi-Mink (Synthetic Mink)
 Similar to human hair/ mink lashes, these lush lashes are manufactured a high grade polymer. Depending on the brand/rep you purchase from, some lashes can be mixed with silk, or other materials, so make sure to check the ingredients from reps. Synthetic lashes are great to work with, because they are easy, perfectly uniformed, sized, curled, and more. The lashes can come in multiple colors, such as white, brown, black, red, green, blue, and more. They even offer two tone! This versatile lash is also light weight, and act as a natural lash. Depending on the vendor you buy from, and what size, they can be heavy and/or overly shiny. I prefer the "matte" lashes for clients. If they choose to have a shine, I'd than offer a lash sealer to help achieve that look, and help extend the lash life. My problem with these? Depending on lashes, they come in multiple styles, such as strip lashes, to W, Y, J(A), B, C, D, ect. lashes. Volume lashes, depending on the vendor, are a pain in the butt. They don't hold the position or the seperation, but instead bunch together, making it appear as one giant lash. What should be 4-5 lashes that are "0.5 or less weight" now appear to look like a .25 or heavier. Nasty. Cluster or strip lashes should never be applied as lash extensions, and neither should some volume. Again, buy from a reputable company.

Yellow Light: Not Recommended, but on the Market. 

Silk
Silk lashes are lighter than typical eyelash extensions allowing them to flex and act as a natural lash. Silk lashes also give a high gloss look, and is a popular lash type techs use. Silk is one of the chepeast materials available for purchase, depending on the vendor. Because of this, there have been cases where the silk lashes are not 100%. The problem? Like any other "thread" or "fabric material", it can absorb. So when you dip the lash into adhesive, and place on the lashes and set/dry, they become stiff. It's not fun having needles for lashes, when they are firm. Another issue that silk doesn't present, is make sure your client is not allergic to silk/satin. You'd be surprised, there are some people allergic to the material. Another problem? These can easily get kinked or crimped. Do not use tweezers or lash curlers with pressure. Be gentle.

silk: High gloss

Red Light:

Cluster "Party" Lashes &
Stip Lashes 
These should NEVER EVER EVER be applied as lash extensions. If your tech offers this, RUN in the other direction far far away. If applied with lash extension adhesive, to the natural lashes, they can cause damage the natural lash cycle, cause premature or permanent shedding or balding, skin irritation/damage to the lid. Because these lashes are not applied on a "one extension to one lash" basis, they are applied to a group of natural lashes (2-3 or more - or strips - portion/all). If applied, they are now screwing up the natural lash cycle, and are also extremely heavy and damaging to the natural integrity of natural lashes. It's one thing if these we're applied with a semi-soft adhesive, like "DUO" that lasts for only a day.... But if you are going to see a PROFESSIONAL, and they offer these with lash extension adhesive........RUN.

clusters gone wrong!

My suggestion?
CLIENTS - Make sure to do your homework. Ask your tech if they are licensed/certified, if they have reviews, reputable references, and what lashes/brand they use.
TECHS - Ask your brand/rep about the product. Do your homework for lashes, lash materials, ingredients, where they come from, etc.